Dry kiln for jarred tobacco.

[ShiniKoroshi]

The metal canister in the center is to house the fan and heat source. Here is where we need to do a little shopping for easy to assemble components. There are many combinations of product available.

For example....
A 4 inch (102mm) duct fan available on Amazon for $11 to $20


The fan would be connected to a flange duct connector ($8) that would be fastened to our raised floor.

The combined height of these two components will be about 9 inches (228mm). The heat source can be mounted in either the flange or the downstream side of the fan.

The heat source is a small *100w halogen lamp. Actual size .6inch x 2.25inch (15mm x 57mm) $3-$6
*100W may be too hot. I do know 50w and 75w are available.


There are many socket options for the E11 mini-candelabra bulbs. $3-$6


Don't forget that you will need a 140°F (60°C) thermal fuse. $2-$5


This is only one (on the fly) example of how you can get this together. Different fan may require a different coupling and mounting, etc. There are NO WRONG ideas and solutions. The point is maximizing the economy of either expense, effort and/or complication.

 

[ShiniKoroshi]

The raised floor is simply a sheet of expanded or perforated aluminum. $12
You may have to trim the corners or bend them down. Cutting the center is optional.


You can make a fancy mounting or glue a few 1 inch (25mm) sections of 1 inch (25mm) dowel to the bottom of the cooler, enough to support the glass jars but not too many to obstruct airflow.

Add the controller of your choice, some wire, connectors, tape and you're pretty much set to build a kiln.

 

[jackpine]

If I should be so blessed with a tobacco harvest this(my first time growing)year, your ideas and instructions will be a blessing- thanks

 

[ShiniKoroshi]

If I should be so blessed with a tobacco harvest this(my first time growing)year, your ideas and instructions will be a blessing- thanks

Good luck with your grow and Im looking forward to seeing your kiln build.

 

[ShiniKoroshi]

New ideas will be posted randomly. Later Ill string it all together and maybe make CAD drawings. Anyhow....

Adding a thin sheet of aluminum to the bottom, under the false floor, will prevent the area under the heater from becoming excessively hot by dissipating the heat outward from the center. The perforated sheet (false floor) is doing the same (especially if the center was not cut out) and that heat is then radiated upward into and around the bottom of the jars.

The fan has the power cord and this is where you would splice in the thermal fuse and a line to send power back to the controller. A pair of wires would then return to the heater to power the bulb. We can tap the ground on the fan to ground the rest of the assembled unit of floor-fan-heater.

 

[ShiniKoroshi]

My kiln has been running continuous since May 2nd. One of the bulbs has failed since the last time I opened it about 3 weeks ago. Rough calculations, bulb failed at approx 2500 hours. Apparently, one 100w bulb is enough heat to reach the upper limit of 127°F. Since its completely full (42 pint jars) Ill leave it closed up until the 2nd bulb fails.

 

[stonefly]

With respect to the fan you have installed there (and I can't really make out the layout) if you intend to intend to circulate the heat and benefit from the convection that would provide there needs to be a "return" course for airflow to the back of the fan prop or you will only disturb the air around the prop.

If design and testing is afoot the load on the fan motor will increase as air is being more effectively and there will be a corresponding rise in amp draw.

An external and sealed mounting of the fan and ductwork would probably best maintain the integrity of what you've already done.

 

[ShiniKoroshi]

With respect to the fan you have installed there (and I can't really make out the layout) if you intend to intend to circulate the heat and benefit from the convection that would provide there needs to be a "return" course for airflow to the back of the fan prop or you will only disturb the air around the prop.

If design and testing is afoot the load on the fan motor will increase as air is being more effectively and there will be a corresponding rise in amp draw.

An external and sealed mounting of the fan and ductwork would probably best maintain the integrity of what you've already done.

The fan is mounted to the false floor which provides return air from the bottom.


The false floor is elevated 3 inches, has a 1 inch gap in the front and seven 1 inch holes in the middle.


The back partition when installed.


Basically, the area with shelves is smaller than the total volume of the kiln. The air is pulled from below and sent upward in the rear above the fan.


The kiln temperature is uniform within a couple degrees throughout.

 

[stonefly]

That looks solid, I would only suggest that you greatly increase the size of the return holes.
The air being forced through the supply air opening by the fan is pressurized, the air passing through the return holes is acting on a lower pressure. (a restriction)
Well done and probably overkill anyway but I wouldn't think any differential of temp. would occur with that capacity of fan airflow.

 

[Sergey Ukraine]

I would insert a mesh in the places marked in the photo, which would contribute to better airflow distribution.

 

[stonefly]

I would insert a mesh in the places marked in the photo, which would contribute to better airflow distribution.
View attachment 58020

Cut those holes and you will get better airflow instead of pressure on the face of the holed plate and air velocity on the downstream side of it. (which serves you no purpose.
Why screen it? Is there something other than jars in there that might impact the fan blade? Open it up and you're good.

 

[ShiniKoroshi]

Pressure is negligible because its not that type of fan and its an unrestricted system.


Go back to the picture and notice how the false floor is short by 1 inch. When the door is in place this becomes a 1 inch gap which is more than enough for this fan. The holes were added to balance the airflow and thus temperature between the front and rear of the shelves.