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Those appear to be flea beetles. [http://www.ipmimages.org/browse/subthumb.cfm?sub=2578&area=62]
A discussion from NCSU: http://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/tobacco-pest-management-insects-tobacco-flea-beetle/
For such small plants, you can dust or spray lightly with a preparation of permethrin. By the time harvest begins, the leaf should be safe, though I would be inclined to discard these mud lugs. The pre-harvest interval for permethrin used on vegetables is 1 day. Although I'm not comfortable with that, it does indicate that it is a temporary toxin.
EPA Fact Sheet: http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/reregistration/REDs/factsheets/permethrin_fs.htm
A systemic, like Admire or Othene, used in the production of seedlings, seems to prevent flea beetles, as well as aphids.
I have used permethrin spray on grapes (for Japanese Beetles) and on eggplant (for flea beetles). I notice that the affected insects begin to reappear on the treated plants after 10 to 15 days.
Bob
A discussion from NCSU: http://tobacco.ces.ncsu.edu/tobacco-pest-management-insects-tobacco-flea-beetle/
For such small plants, you can dust or spray lightly with a preparation of permethrin. By the time harvest begins, the leaf should be safe, though I would be inclined to discard these mud lugs. The pre-harvest interval for permethrin used on vegetables is 1 day. Although I'm not comfortable with that, it does indicate that it is a temporary toxin.
EPA Fact Sheet: http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/reregistration/REDs/factsheets/permethrin_fs.htm
A systemic, like Admire or Othene, used in the production of seedlings, seems to prevent flea beetles, as well as aphids.
I have used permethrin spray on grapes (for Japanese Beetles) and on eggplant (for flea beetles). I notice that the affected insects begin to reappear on the treated plants after 10 to 15 days.
Bob
I sprinkle Diatomaceous Earth on my transplants. It eliminates slug, cut worm and flea beatle damage. After a heavy rain it needs to be reapplied.
So you only put on top of the plants but not the bottom?
I sprinkle it onto the leaves and onto the ground around the stem.
Matty
Well-Known Member
I like using diatomacious earth because it is not poisonous or toxic like other products are. I as well have great success with it on all the plants in the garden and flower beds around my dad's. Seems to control everything we've had a problem with.
You should be aware that diatomaceous earth is a significant inhalation hazard--silica dust--especially while you are applying it. I sprinkle it carefully onto the dirt surrounding small seedlings at risk from earwigs. I won't apply it to the tobacco leaf itself. There is no free lunch.
Bob
Bob
I never have had a problem with the dust. I treat it like I do lime or sand or for that matter when I mix concrete. I just make sure I do not create a cloud. I sprinkle it onto my transplants. By the time I harvest my leaf there is no residue left.
Here's a typical fact sheet on DE: http://www.deq.state.or.us/er/docs/LowerBridge/DiatomaceousEarthFactSheet.pdf.
If you're a non-smoker, I wouldn't worry about exposure to the silica.
Seriously, it's a matter of comparing potential risks. I usually hand squash the low populations of flea beetles that appear on my seedlings. (Just rub it against the leaf, once you catch it.) Although I don't spray my leaf with pyrethroids (permethrin), I do spray the seed head with permethrin just prior to tying on a bag. Some of it drifts onto leaf. Harvest is weeks away. I'm not too concerned--maybe a tiny bit concerned.
Bob
If you're a non-smoker, I wouldn't worry about exposure to the silica.
Seriously, it's a matter of comparing potential risks. I usually hand squash the low populations of flea beetles that appear on my seedlings. (Just rub it against the leaf, once you catch it.) Although I don't spray my leaf with pyrethroids (permethrin), I do spray the seed head with permethrin just prior to tying on a bag. Some of it drifts onto leaf. Harvest is weeks away. I'm not too concerned--maybe a tiny bit concerned.
Bob
ProfessorPangloss
Amateur Kentuckian
Flea beetles can skeletonize eggplant in a frighteningly efficient way.
But I squash them too.
CT Tobaccoman
Well-Known Member
I spray with acephate (Orthene) and/or immidachloprid. Kills em and keeps them away 10 days or more
I have applied diatomaceous earth. To reduce inhalation hazard I mixed it with water and and just sprinkled the solution around. I also have sprayed with Gamma-Cyhalothrin. It is a form of pyrethroids and is readily available in the local warehouse hardware store. It lasts longer than pyrethrin so hopefully the bugs won't be back in 10 days.
Ben Brand
Well-Known Member
Dito on what CT Tobaccoman do, Orthene is all I use for any insects. Good stuff!!
Orthene used to be registered in SA for tobacco, but not allowed to use on tobacco anymore, kills all the beneficiary insects as well.
Orthene used to be registered in SA for tobacco, but not allowed to use on tobacco anymore, kills all the beneficiary insects as well.
Smokin Harley
Well-Known Member
Do they have a hard shell? Get some Diatomaecious Earth and dust your plants with it and mix a little into the soil around them too. DE is made up of microscopic coral and such . Its purpose it a mechanical insecticide rather than a poison. It acts like thousands of tiny razor blades and pierces the hard exoskeleton of beetles, basically then they dehydrate and die. Harmless to us , and washes off easily without residue.
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