Storing kilned tobacco leaf

[mwaller]

With my first kiln load about to complete in less than 2 weeks, I'm beginning to look for proper storage solutions that will protect the leaf from physical damage and mold. My impression is that loose leaf tobacco from a commercial supplier is shipped and stored flat in vapor-proof bags. While this might work for some of my varietals, I'm sure that a good number of leaves would crack or break if flattened. Perhaps an air-tight storage box would be more appropriate? If so, how do you ensure the leaf remains at the proper humidity?

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

I use resealable parts bags, then I put them into a gasket-tote, like this: https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/sterilite-76-liter-clear-gasket-box/6000195957325 the bags are not as vapor proof as the ones WLT uses, but they have wider openings, depending on the size, and are resealable. They are thicker than freezer bags at 4 mil. https://www.shipperssupply.com/AddProd.aspx?pID=1405080
The smaller totes only have latches on the sides, not the ends-not recommended.

If I have dry tobacco, I reorder it either in the kiln or curing shed simply by raising the humidity.

 

[deluxestogie]

I'm using these 3 MIL 30" x 10" poly-Nylon bags from Uline: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-16470/Plastic-Retail-Food-Bags/Poly-Nylon-Vacuum-Bags-10-x-30

I've noticed that WLT is beginning to use similar ones as well. I am able to fit even my largest leaves into these bags. Some of the hugest need the tips folded over. But if the leaf is in just the right case, it slips in without damage. Then the opening can be propped open until the moisture content is about right for storage. For nearly all my bags of tobacco, I just roll the open end, and keep it clamped with 1 or 2 cheap wooden clothespins. I never cut them to size, and frequently re-use them after a bag is emptied.

FoodSaver bags are thicker, probably 5 MIL, but the only way to get adequate width (11-1/2") is to purchase it on a 50' long roll. To work with that, you need a heat sealer.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...ood-Bags/Uline-Jumbo-Vacuum-Rolls-11-1-2-x-50

Bob

 

[SmokesAhoy]

A tip for those without food saver systems-satisfactory results can be obtained by packing your leaf into the bag, then when the right moisture level is reached you seal off all but an inch or so with wife's hair straightener or iron on wool setting then inserting vacuum hose with the narrowest attachment and sucking the air out, then sealing the remaining section.

 

[deluxestogie]

I'm not sure of the benefits of vacuum sealing your tobacco. But a downside of doing that is the need to cut the bag in order to remove even a single leaf. If it's shred, and you have many bags of the same stuff, then I could see an advantage.

Bob

 

[mwaller]

Great comments, thanks.
This begs the question... how do I determine the "right" moisture content for storage?
My curing area is controlled at around 70% RH. In this environment, some leaves are pliable and easy to handle. But others are quite brittle...

 

[deluxestogie]

Probably between 60 and 65% RH at 70ºF is as high as you would want for stored tobacco. Above 70% RH, it will eventually mold.

Some years ago, I hung on the wall one leaf each of several different tobacco varieties in my hallway, near an indoor hygrometer. A dozen or more times a day, as I passed the hanging leaf, I would feel it, then look at the RH reading. I did this for about a half a year.

Since the RH is "relative" to the ambient temperature, the very same water content in the leaf may result in a higher RH at lower temps, and a lower RH at higher temps. We should really be talking about % water content in the leaf. But most of us do not have the apparatus to measure that.

My rule of thumb is to put into storage leaf at a higher RH (leaf feels more in case) if the ambient temp is unusually low at the time of packing it compared to leaf being packed at an unusually warm ambient temp. This is all a tactile skill. It just takes time (months to years) to get a sense of what is the "right" case for packing tobacco.

If your tobacco packing and storing environment are always at the same temperature year round (e.g. climate controlled), then you can zero in on the right feel fairly quickly.

Bob

 

[burge]

Best is vacuum pack the leaf or dry it out remoisten the leaf and dry it out again it ages leaf. Varying temperatures will do the same. Leaf will ferment when stacked.

 

[deluxestogie]

Fully dried leaf will not age so long as it remains dry. The oxidation processes require moisture.

Bob

 

[SmokesAhoy]

Personally I store it in a room that has a dehumidifier in it. The dehumidifier shuts off below 50%, and fluctuates between the high 40's and low to mid 50's. At this rh the leaf by all means will shatter, however you can gently handle it without it shattering. I don't know the rh of my attic but it must be much lower since gentle pressure will shatter the leaf. At ~50% however you can gently pry apart leaf and handle it, again gently, without breakage. I store it in boxes with leaf stacked flat in this manner. I've had too much mold over the years and this is just a way that works for me and over time seems to have saved me tobacco so I continue to do it. I would absolutely bag it if I had a moisture meter or something like that as with wlt bagged tobacco I can manhandle it to store it and it's never molded but I don't trust myself to bag up bulk and not mess it up after the amount I've let mold in the last few years attests to. The problem is even when the leaf is right the rib might be too high moisture so when you bag it the mold can set in.

50% works though for storage without any loss to mold, doubt aging happens much if at all though but that is what the kiln is for I guess.

I do like how I can stack wlt tobacco like bricks though so this thread has me interested in working it all out.

 

[mwaller]

I use resealable parts bags, then I put them into a gasket-tote, like this: https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/sterilite-76-liter-clear-gasket-box/6000195957325 the bags are not as vapor proof as the ones WLT uses, but they have wider openings, depending on the size, and are resealable. They are thicker than freezer bags at 4 mil. https://www.shipperssupply.com/AddProd.aspx?pID=1405080
The smaller totes only have latches on the sides, not the ends-not recommended.

If I have dry tobacco, I reorder it either in the kiln or curing shed simply by raising the humidity.

I store all my Habanos in gasketed tubs just like that, and keep them at 62% with Boveda pouches. Perhaps I will do the same with my leaf...
I once had a mold issue when storing at 65%, but never at 62%.

 

[deluxestogie]

...this is just a way that works for me and over time seems to have saved me tobacco so I continue to do it.

Absolutely! Each of us needs to find the storage method that works best in our unique environment. With time, we all get better at it.

Bob

 

[mwaller]

Thanks, Bob. I found a case of those 10x30 bags for $80 shipped. I'm not sure I need 500pcs, but what the heck...!

I'm using these 3 MIL 30" x 10" poly-Nylon bags from Uline: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-16470/Plastic-Retail-Food-Bags/Poly-Nylon-Vacuum-Bags-10-x-30

I've noticed that WLT is beginning to use similar ones as well. I am able to fit even my largest leaves into these bags. Some of the hugest need the tips folded over. But if the leaf is in just the right case, it slips in without damage. Then the opening can be propped open until the moisture content is about right for storage. For nearly all my bags of tobacco, I just roll the open end, and keep it clamped with 1 or 2 cheap wooden clothespins. I never cut them to size, and frequently re-use them after a bag is emptied.

FoodSaver bags are thicker, probably 5 MIL, but the only way to get adequate width (11-1/2") is to purchase it on a 50' long roll. To work with that, you need a heat sealer.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...ood-Bags/Uline-Jumbo-Vacuum-Rolls-11-1-2-x-50

Bob