I JUST BOUGHT ME A TECK 1! finally got a good enough deal I hope I like it. It was shipped out today.
Teck 1 shredder
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I did recieve the teck 1 today. For a 90+ year old machine it is in wonderful condition. I doubt it was used much. Has anyone here used a teck one and could give me some advice on sharpening it?
Bob
Bob
Bob, I have had to sharpen a lot of different cutting edges including lathe turning tools etc. If you can post a picture of the blade I am pretty sure I can make some suggestions. I can already tell you some sort of jig made for a bench grinder will probably be the most reliable method. But not the only one. Often jsut a hand held hone will but an edge on a cutter and is not aggressive enough to do any damage.
thanks dan I can sharpen stuff too I would like to talk to someone that has a teck 1
can you sharpen it danny? have you ever seen a teck 1? have you ever you seen a teck 1? I own one and I do not want to wreck it. I can shharpen it for sure. Sharpen it wrong??? meybe.. Sharpen it wrong 1 time and it is ruined forever.
Bob,
Forgive my lack of imagination, but could you post a photo of the Teck 1 blade, as it meets the opposing cutting surface? I promise not to give any advice (maybe), but I'd love to have some picture of it in my mind.
Thanks,
Bob
Forgive my lack of imagination, but could you post a photo of the Teck 1 blade, as it meets the opposing cutting surface? I promise not to give any advice (maybe), but I'd love to have some picture of it in my mind.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob, Yes I can. That you think I would have to have seen a tech one blade in order to know how you sharpen one demonstrates your lack of understanding of sharpening in general. First there are basic methods that are used to sharpen anything. and If you are familiar with them even in a casual manner you can easily see just what method applies to any edge. In addition there are additional methods that are suitable to use on any edge, they are not as precise or as fast but they will produce an edge and avoid the risks of the more "Professional" methods. They actually remove less material per sharpening for the most part and with care will work for as many as 15 to 20 sharpening before reshaping of the edge is required.
The tool above for example. It is immediately obvious to me that it is sharpened with an ordinary bench grinder with a wheel diameter of 6 inches. it is made of HSS and much care must be given in not removing the temper in the metal. It requires that it be addressed to the wheel at an angle 45 degrees up from the horizontal relative to the center of the wheel and perfectly straight to the axes of the wheel. the tool is then touched to the side of the grinding wheel to dress the flat surface. And I can tell that much just from a picture.
The tool above for example. It is immediately obvious to me that it is sharpened with an ordinary bench grinder with a wheel diameter of 6 inches. it is made of HSS and much care must be given in not removing the temper in the metal. It requires that it be addressed to the wheel at an angle 45 degrees up from the horizontal relative to the center of the wheel and perfectly straight to the axes of the wheel. the tool is then touched to the side of the grinding wheel to dress the flat surface. And I can tell that much just from a picture.
BarG
Founding Member
My opinion is if its 90 yrs. old it was built to last. Them old timers didn't much like dull tools, and carbide wasn't around. It appears to me the shaft is adjustable to allow for sharpening by maybe increasing or decreasing tolerance between cutting edge looking at Jitterbugdudes ebay link. Pictures aint as good as the real mcoy to look at. It looks like the sharpening surface is similar to any long edged blade radius is not on sharpening plane. wide fine grit White oxide grinding wheels and wet wheels are good for sharpening without overheating and losing temper. Good luck, I think that was a cool invention. I'm waying in here cause I had to buy a grinder as described above to keep from having to ship blades to have sharpened [straight up to 8" blades with tool posts and blade holders]. The radius may require hand held against a large flat wet wheel, but aint nothin for a stepper, right. There may be professional sharpening services in your area that would handle special blades for a decent price.. Again good luck Bob , I was looking at one of those myself last year. Post a pic if you wouldn't mind to see the condition.
I looked at the photos linked to above. I see portions of the blade in at least three photos. At first I suspected the blade might be able to be sharpened by lapping the flat side of the blade. as it turns out the thickness of the blade looks like it is critical to it's fit against the bed of the machine so lapping is not possible. To bad as it would be the surest and simplest method. What I cannot see from any of the photos is if the blade is hollow ground. This would tell me something about what sort of wheel it was shaped with. I also seriously doubt they are made of carbon steel which is the most mistake resistant metal. The blade has a convex cutting edge that is most likely addressed to a grinding wheel of unknown diameter with a jig that will rotate the blade past the wheel at the proper arch and at the correct angel to maintain the bevel angle. I suspect and it appears as far as I can tell that teh bevel is somewhere in the order of 15 to 20 degrees and that would also be usual for such applications. Such a jiog woudl be easily made with scraps of wood. anything that the blade can be screwed to securely and then have a reference or leg that rests on a solid surface woudl work if you used a grinding wheel that removes material slowly. A slow speed wet grinder for example. I would not attempt to grind this blade with any sort of normal or high speed grinder I don't think it would be possible and not burn the edge.
If you imagine that blade as the end of a pendulum that brings it into contact with the grinding stone as it swings that might be easier to visualize what I am saying.
Even better for a blade that already has a decent edge and does not need to be reshaped is a simple hand method of sharpening a convex. Depending on the condition of your edge now this method will work very well for multiple sharpening and removes minute amounts of material. I woudl recommend somethign along this line for most sharpenigns and resort to nay method of actual grinding only when absolutely necessary. her is a video showing the sharpeing of the convex portion of a common hunting knife.
http://www.turleyknives.com/sharpeningaconvexedge.htm
If you imagine that blade as the end of a pendulum that brings it into contact with the grinding stone as it swings that might be easier to visualize what I am saying.
Even better for a blade that already has a decent edge and does not need to be reshaped is a simple hand method of sharpening a convex. Depending on the condition of your edge now this method will work very well for multiple sharpening and removes minute amounts of material. I woudl recommend somethign along this line for most sharpenigns and resort to nay method of actual grinding only when absolutely necessary. her is a video showing the sharpeing of the convex portion of a common hunting knife.
http://www.turleyknives.com/sharpeningaconvexedge.htm
Me too Bob. I mess with my lathe and diamond stones a bit and might have an idea.
John
I can't believe you guys just MADE ME but a Teck 1 this morning!...should have it in a few days.
Randy B
Randy B
Okay, Randy. When it arrives, please measure the bevel angle on the blades. That's your homework assignment (and it will count toward your final grade).
Bob
Bob
With luck I should be able to turn in my assignment about a week from now.
Well, to accurately measure those angles I might need to take 2 different measurements. One with tobacco from Connecticut and the other with tobacco from Virginia..
mr jitterbug
Good luck with your teck 1. When you get it I would like to know what angle your blades are cut at. Meybe we can compare notes. My teck 1 is a fine looking machine. It looks hardly used. Amazing condition for a 90 year old machine. The cutting edges of my blades are rolled over I think that someone 85 years ago sharpened it wrong and ruined the blades. That may explain why mine looks in such a pristine condition. It didn't work right and sat in someones attic for years.
The last teck 1 cutters were built in the early 1920's after that factory cigarettes were widely available cheap. Rolling your own just didn't make sense anymore.
Be very careful removing any screws. You can not get replacements.
Good luck
Bob
Good luck with your teck 1. When you get it I would like to know what angle your blades are cut at. Meybe we can compare notes. My teck 1 is a fine looking machine. It looks hardly used. Amazing condition for a 90 year old machine. The cutting edges of my blades are rolled over I think that someone 85 years ago sharpened it wrong and ruined the blades. That may explain why mine looks in such a pristine condition. It didn't work right and sat in someones attic for years.
The last teck 1 cutters were built in the early 1920's after that factory cigarettes were widely available cheap. Rolling your own just didn't make sense anymore.
Be very careful removing any screws. You can not get replacements.
Good luck
Bob
Bob.. I'll let ya know. Might be a week or more before I get it and then take it apart
Randy B
Randy B
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