When to start

[Homegrowngoodnes]

The weather here is quite difficult to predict as the when it will change. Locally we say if you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes. It'll change! That being said, i cant remember ever having much frost by the middle of march. Assuming i will transplant roughly in the middle of march, would you say it would be appropriate to begin seeding my trays in the end of january or beginning of february? I intend to use premiere promix bx with micorrizhae (sp?) available at ace hardware for seed starting mix.

 

[deluxestogie]

I've lived at both Eglin and Tyndall. It never freezes, until it does. Plan on starting your seed 8 weeks before transplant (8 weeks before the last frost date). At the time you are hoping to put out the plants, check your local 10-day weather forecast.

Lookup your first and last freeze/frost dates by zip code

Check out the largest plant identification database in the world. Read plant and insect reference guides at Daves Garden.

davesgarden.com

Also, I would plan on 25-50% more seedlings than you expect to transplant. [Some years, I end up tossing those extras; some years I need most of them.]

Bob

 

[peterd]

MYCORRHIZAE is correct, “myco” = fungus and “rhiza” = root. Fungus roots. Mycophiles love mycorrhizae while mycophobes run for the hills at the first sign of them. You can start without mycorrhizae but 90% of plants have improved field performance mostly Green, Leafy Plants including Tobacco and most Commercially Produced Plants. Shrubs and foliage plants except for Rhododendron, Azalea, and Heath; Berries except for blueberries, cranberries and lingonberries; Nut trees except pecan, hazelnuts and filberts. Flowers, Vegetables except Brassica and beets, cultivated grasses except weedy grasses; Fruit trees including tropical fruits; many wetland/aquatic species except rushes and horsetails. Mostly taking about ENDO-mycorrhizal fungi with this group. ECTO-mycorrhizal fungi is the other 5%, mostly woody plants, conifers and oaks. All up that’s 95% of the world’s plant species form associations with mycorrhizae and require the association for maximum performance in the field.

For frost dates I work with last frost and work back for indoor starts. And then first frost and work backwards for fruiting/harvest to build my local “window” for the local growing season.

 

[Homegrowngoodnes]

Researching last frost dates and first frost dates in my area projects about a 225 day growing season. I am wondering if it would be worthwhile planting 2 slightly smaller crops so not all the labor at one time? Like maybe transplanting the second round when priming begins? Just a thought.

 

[wruk53]

Researching last frost dates and first frost dates in my area projects about a 225 day growing season. I am wondering if it would be worthwhile planting 2 slightly smaller crops so not all the labor at one time? Like maybe transplanting the second round when priming begins? Just a thought.

That should be easily doable for you, just be sure you get your spring crop started early enough.