Bob, you started earlier this year?
deluxestogie Grow Log 2017
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I started starting earlier. But yes, I will actually start the seed today (about 2 weeks earlier than my usual target date).
Bob
Bob
Seeding the Germination Jars
There's nothing special about how I do this, but this illustrates my approach. This may be helpful if this is your first time germinating tobacco seed.
If your tap water is chlorinated, then add bottled water. I add ~1/4 cup of water per jar. I only occasionally need to add more water during germination.
With one hand, I spread the top of the seed Ziplock, tilting the bag slightly toward the jar. With a finger of the other hand, I gently tap my holding hand. This helps the seed to come out slowly. I can just barely see the seed landing on the mix. Once I see something, then I begin to circle it over the mix surface, still tapping. I nearly always apply far more seed than I will need, just because the process is clumsy.
I settle the seed into the surface of the mix with a few sprays of water. If your tap water is chlorinated, then spray with bottled water.
This jar now goes with the other 11 jars onto a metal cookie sheet that will rest on a seedling heat mat.
I expect germination within 4 to 10 days, at which point, seedlings that appear sturdy enough will be transferred with forceps to individual cells in a 1020 tray.
Bob
There's nothing special about how I do this, but this illustrates my approach. This may be helpful if this is your first time germinating tobacco seed.
If your tap water is chlorinated, then add bottled water. I add ~1/4 cup of water per jar. I only occasionally need to add more water during germination.
With one hand, I spread the top of the seed Ziplock, tilting the bag slightly toward the jar. With a finger of the other hand, I gently tap my holding hand. This helps the seed to come out slowly. I can just barely see the seed landing on the mix. Once I see something, then I begin to circle it over the mix surface, still tapping. I nearly always apply far more seed than I will need, just because the process is clumsy.
I settle the seed into the surface of the mix with a few sprays of water. If your tap water is chlorinated, then spray with bottled water.
This jar now goes with the other 11 jars onto a metal cookie sheet that will rest on a seedling heat mat.
I expect germination within 4 to 10 days, at which point, seedlings that appear sturdy enough will be transferred with forceps to individual cells in a 1020 tray.
Bob
greenmonster714
Well-Known Member
Thank you for posting this Bob. Once they germinate do you leave the lid off or do you just pull out what you need and discard the rest?
When a variety germinates, and the required seedlings are transplanted to cells in a 1020 tray, I replace the lid, and continue it off the heat mat, like a closed terrarium. It receives only indirect sunlight. If a transplant in a cell fails, I still have more. Kept in the jars, the seedlings remain fairly tiny. I've had some of these closed jars maintain tiny seedlings for well over a year, without the addition of water. (These superannuated seedlings are not of much use, since they have survived by epigenetic changes that cause them to immediately die of a heart attack when planted in a more favorable setting. But they're cute.)
Bob
Bob
And the Winner Is...
Besuki (Kesilir) is the first seed to germinate this year. This is now the fourth day since seeding the germination jars.
During the first 72 hours or so, each tobacco seed "imbibes" (drinks) water, and swells. That is the first indication of seed viability. Then one pole of each seed elongates. As the initial growth tip (the radicle) penetrates the outer seed coat, it is immediately visible as a white tip erupting from the dark brown seed.
Radicle emergence.
The radicle takes care of the most important business first: producing a root. Once the root is established, the remainder of the seed embryo will then become the apical meristem, producing a cotyledon (the pair of "seed leaves").
Magnified area of the same photo shown above.
Individual seeds that show a radicle can now be carefully put into cells in a 1020 insert, if you want, since we know that those are viable. I'll wait for a cotyledon pair, before moving on.
Bob
Besuki (Kesilir) is the first seed to germinate this year. This is now the fourth day since seeding the germination jars.
During the first 72 hours or so, each tobacco seed "imbibes" (drinks) water, and swells. That is the first indication of seed viability. Then one pole of each seed elongates. As the initial growth tip (the radicle) penetrates the outer seed coat, it is immediately visible as a white tip erupting from the dark brown seed.
Radicle emergence.
The radicle takes care of the most important business first: producing a root. Once the root is established, the remainder of the seed embryo will then become the apical meristem, producing a cotyledon (the pair of "seed leaves").
Magnified area of the same photo shown above.
Individual seeds that show a radicle can now be carefully put into cells in a 1020 insert, if you want, since we know that those are viable. I'll wait for a cotyledon pair, before moving on.
Bob
Tutu
Well-Known Member
Let me do a slight follow-up here. I'm afraid I'm going to talk your 12 variety grow into a 11 variety grow. That is, the Besuki from Kesilir and Ambulu should be exactly the same variety. We supply all farmers with the same strain of seed. Kesilir and Ambulu are villages in the Jember district. These two seed bags are simply collections from a farmer in Kesilir, and from a farmer in Ambulu. There is always the odd farmer that retains his own seed and grows that instead. But even in such a scenario, I would still argue that the Besuki is pretty much the same. From memory, the fields in Kesilir and Ambulu from which I collected looked the same. If anything, the plants in Ambulu were slightly taller. That may very well have been due to circumstances, not the seed. I made a number of collections from different villages. When sending the seed to you, Bob, it just felt wrong to mix them together. But essentially I was sending you two collections just spread the risk of one of the collections not turning out the right way.
Very interesting to read about that seed from Madura. When I work with Madura tobacco here in Indonesia it's always a mix of things that are grown on Madura. Similar to Jatim. Looking forward to see pictures from that too!
The Besuki seed from Kesilir is clearly germinating earlier than that from Ambulu (as well as that from tabakanbau), though the timing may be entirely attributable to external factors, rather than genetics. Since I've already set up things for comparison of the three, I'll go ahead with that, and get detailed measurements along the way.
The worst case scenario is 16 identical Besuki plants. Estimating 16 good leaves per plant: that's 256 leaves. If only half are wrapper grade, then I'll expect several pounds of cured Besuki wrapper.
Bob
The worst case scenario is 16 identical Besuki plants. Estimating 16 good leaves per plant: that's 256 leaves. If only half are wrapper grade, then I'll expect several pounds of cured Besuki wrapper.
Bob
Tutu
Well-Known Member
I knew you'd give it a positive twist. And it is indeed interesting that those from Kesilir germinate faster than the others. Maybe I should just keep my mouth shut and see what happens!
Hello Bob,
I have a question about the seedlings kept in closed terrarium
I have some seeds that I put in small pots to test germination (about 2 month and a half ago already).
After they germinate, I let the pots (not closed) inside my house, only giving them a little bit of water from time to time, and these seeds grew very slowly (I used no artificial light or warmth).
I would like to know what I should do with these slow growing tobacco : should I take care of them and wait for better weather so they will grow fine ? or is it a waste of time ? Will they be able to grow correctly in the end or is it a bad start in life for them ?
They have between 3 and 5 very small leaves, the biggest plant is only 1.2cm large!
What do you think I should do ? Should I begin new seeds, or can I use some of these early germinated plants ?
Thanks.
I would plan to start seed for the plants you will require. The small potted plants may actually grow well, once they are transplanted outdoors. I have done this with plants in uncovered 3-1/2" (~9 cm) pots that had been growing indoors or on my open porch for over a year. Most of them grew to normal size, once planted in the ground.
I suspect that the "terrarium" seedlings lose their ability to limit their water loss, and just promptly dehydrate when moved to an open container.
Bob
Labels for my 1020 Trays
Before I transfer any seedling into a 1020 tray, I prepare 1 label for each 4-cell pack. My list of varieties includes not only how many to transplant, but how many to start (including backups). The number to be started is always rounded up to the nearest multiple of 4 (to match my selected pack size in my 48-cell tray inserts). I create one label (from a craft stick--recognizable as a Popsicle stick) for each separable cell pack.
The craft sticks were purchased several years ago in a box of 1000 at Walmart, for about $7. (I also have a box of 500 "tongue depressor" size craft sticks, which I use to label larger containers and vegetable varieties in the garden.)
These are marked on both sides, which is a nuisance to do, but appreciated later on, when trays have been rotated. I use a Sharpie pen. This remains easily legible while awaiting transplant. The sun will eventually bleach the ink out in the garden. For veggie markers, I use the larger sticks, as well as a fatter Sharpie, which holds up better in sunlight.
Unlike plastic markers, these will rot away fairly rapidly, and just fade into the soil.
Bob
Before I transfer any seedling into a 1020 tray, I prepare 1 label for each 4-cell pack. My list of varieties includes not only how many to transplant, but how many to start (including backups). The number to be started is always rounded up to the nearest multiple of 4 (to match my selected pack size in my 48-cell tray inserts). I create one label (from a craft stick--recognizable as a Popsicle stick) for each separable cell pack.
The craft sticks were purchased several years ago in a box of 1000 at Walmart, for about $7. (I also have a box of 500 "tongue depressor" size craft sticks, which I use to label larger containers and vegetable varieties in the garden.)
These are marked on both sides, which is a nuisance to do, but appreciated later on, when trays have been rotated. I use a Sharpie pen. This remains easily legible while awaiting transplant. The sun will eventually bleach the ink out in the garden. For veggie markers, I use the larger sticks, as well as a fatter Sharpie, which holds up better in sunlight.
Unlike plastic markers, these will rot away fairly rapidly, and just fade into the soil.
Bob
greenmonster714
Well-Known Member
Popsicle sticks. Knew I was forgetting something. Gonna have to hit the craft store next time I'm in town.
riverstone
Well-Known Member
I lucked on to a couple of hundred tongue depressors a few years back. Use them the same but you can write a short story on them. i just use bigger letters. handy for half blind oldies like me.
Thanks for the advice, I will continue to make them grow, and add new seeds for every plant I need
I think I'll start my new seeds in a few days.
And I also need to buy sticks !!
Measurements and Observations
I'm slightly data crazy. Each year, I record observations and measurement details of the tobacco varieties that I grow. Although my accumulation of such data over the years has occasionally assisted in identifying a mystery variety, the data usually just gets tucked away at the end of the season.
I do feel that it encourages me to observe my plants more carefully. Each variety occupies 1 column. Here is a closeup of the data collected:
If anyone is interested in a ready-made data sheet, I have provided links below for both a .pdf version as well as an Excel .xlsx version.
EXCEL: Plant Variety Datasheet.xlsx
PDF: PlantVariety Datasheet.pdf
Bob
I'm slightly data crazy. Each year, I record observations and measurement details of the tobacco varieties that I grow. Although my accumulation of such data over the years has occasionally assisted in identifying a mystery variety, the data usually just gets tucked away at the end of the season.
I do feel that it encourages me to observe my plants more carefully. Each variety occupies 1 column. Here is a closeup of the data collected:
If anyone is interested in a ready-made data sheet, I have provided links below for both a .pdf version as well as an Excel .xlsx version.
EXCEL: Plant Variety Datasheet.xlsx
PDF: PlantVariety Datasheet.pdf
Bob
Moving Day
Today was the first of many moving days. I transferred 8 each of Besuki (tabakanbau), Besuki (Ambulu) and Besuki (Kesilir) to their own private rooms in a 48-cell 1020 tray.
All the cells of one tray were filled with the same soil mix as I used for seed starting. I pour the soil onto the cells with a large spoon, and never pack it down. This loose soil will then wick up water from below, without becoming compacted too rapidly.
The 4 corner insert packs were separated from the rest, so that I can add water to the tray easily (even when the tray has been later rotated). Temporarily removing one of the corner packs, I added a total of 3 quarts of water to the tray. (It's the water weight that requires a mesh 1020 tray beneath the others, to stabilize it when moving.) For the remainder of the grow in the tray, I will add only 1.5 quarts of water whenever it's needed. But this first "priming" will be soaked up by the relatively dry soil mix.
With a fingertip, I create a dimple (~3/4" deep) in the center of each cell that will be populated. This makes it much easier to free the damp seedling/soil clumpette from the forceps. Later, after the seedling has grown a bit, the surrounding soil can be closed against it.
After setting out the required wooden labels, I used a forceps to lift one individual seedling at a time from its germination jar, and placed it into the dimple of a cell. Once all of the seedlings for one variety have been set into individual cells, I use a spray bottle to gently mist the soil that surrounds each seedling--until I can see the newly placed seedling settle into place.
If the misting causes a seedling to stick against the soil, I gently free it with the forceps, so that its fragile stem is standing free.
Once all the starts for one variety are in place, I insert the wooden labels, one per cell pack. (The stick also serves as a crude moisture meter, since it is visibly damp above the level of the soil, so long as the soil is not too dry.)
Only half the cells in the tray now have seedlings. The other half will be filled with 24 Prancak N-1, when they are ready. A plastic dome is added, to retain moisture.
The tray is set on a seedling heat mat, and a single layer of Agribon AG-15 is used for a sun screen.
Only 9 more varieties to go.
Bob
Today was the first of many moving days. I transferred 8 each of Besuki (tabakanbau), Besuki (Ambulu) and Besuki (Kesilir) to their own private rooms in a 48-cell 1020 tray.
All the cells of one tray were filled with the same soil mix as I used for seed starting. I pour the soil onto the cells with a large spoon, and never pack it down. This loose soil will then wick up water from below, without becoming compacted too rapidly.
The 4 corner insert packs were separated from the rest, so that I can add water to the tray easily (even when the tray has been later rotated). Temporarily removing one of the corner packs, I added a total of 3 quarts of water to the tray. (It's the water weight that requires a mesh 1020 tray beneath the others, to stabilize it when moving.) For the remainder of the grow in the tray, I will add only 1.5 quarts of water whenever it's needed. But this first "priming" will be soaked up by the relatively dry soil mix.
With a fingertip, I create a dimple (~3/4" deep) in the center of each cell that will be populated. This makes it much easier to free the damp seedling/soil clumpette from the forceps. Later, after the seedling has grown a bit, the surrounding soil can be closed against it.
After setting out the required wooden labels, I used a forceps to lift one individual seedling at a time from its germination jar, and placed it into the dimple of a cell. Once all of the seedlings for one variety have been set into individual cells, I use a spray bottle to gently mist the soil that surrounds each seedling--until I can see the newly placed seedling settle into place.
If the misting causes a seedling to stick against the soil, I gently free it with the forceps, so that its fragile stem is standing free.
Once all the starts for one variety are in place, I insert the wooden labels, one per cell pack. (The stick also serves as a crude moisture meter, since it is visibly damp above the level of the soil, so long as the soil is not too dry.)
Only half the cells in the tray now have seedlings. The other half will be filled with 24 Prancak N-1, when they are ready. A plastic dome is added, to retain moisture.
The tray is set on a seedling heat mat, and a single layer of Agribon AG-15 is used for a sun screen.
Only 9 more varieties to go.
Bob
Tutu
Well-Known Member
Sweet! Let's see how they like it there! Good luck with the other 'moving days'. I've had a good luck at your excel sheet and it looks very nice indeed. Would you have one filled out from a previous year available as well?
Good to see you already put your first seedlings of the year in their pots
Your excel sheet is very complete (even a little too much for me), it's a good example to take notes from the different crops.
If you write each crop in a new column, you can easily compare what works and what don't, it's a good idea !
I will complete my own file with some informations I missed (such as plant size, spacing, etc.)
Thanks for sharing
Your excel sheet is very complete (even a little too much for me), it's a good example to take notes from the different crops.
If you write each crop in a new column, you can easily compare what works and what don't, it's a good idea !
I will complete my own file with some informations I missed (such as plant size, spacing, etc.)
Thanks for sharing
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