Congratulation, CV, for having found that sketchy info. I'm afraid that I can find no composition analysis anywhere on their site. Even just a rudimentary N : P : K would be something.
Bob
Bob
8-5-13 per 3 gram powderCongratulation, CV, for having found that sketchy info. I'm afraid that I can find no composition analysis anywhere on their site. Even just a rudimentary N : P : K would be something.
Bob
In addition to chloride salts that may or may not be listed, chlorine can also be derived from muriatic acid muriate of potash.
These hydroponic nutrient potions may be fine for tobacco. Not knowing can be a problem. More than a few forum members grew gorgeous tobacco crops (in the ground) that produced leaf which cured beautifully, but exhibited poor burn. If the leaf has been properly kilned after curing, yet still fails to burn, it may be due to excess chlorine (from fertilizer or chlorinated water).
If you don't mind being the guinea pig, then your results would add to our information pool.
Bob
As discussed in a number of grow logs over the years, a very small number of tobacco varieties ("giant" varieties, in particular) are dark-period sensitive, and will not produce seed until the dark period is lengthy enough each night. Stray, ambient light at night is enough to disrupt these. BUT...nearly all tobacco varieties are not particularly sensitive to the dark period. Either way, leaf production is unaffected.Does anybody know if tobacco is fully day neutral? Will you grow them on the same daylight hrs start to finish?
In spring, I'm going to be asking you for your advice on germination.



We discuss any variety of tobacco, as well as numerous approaches to growing, harvesting, curing, and finishing your crop. Our members will attempt to provide experience-based answers to your questions.
