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Manfisher’s Grow Blog 2024

manfisher

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I'm far from expert but in my humble opinion if you sow your seeds in reputable seed compost and then pot them up into cells or little pots filled with good quality compost I've found no need at all to use any fertilizers of any kind. Once planted outside it's a different matter, I give them the same feed as I give my tomato plants but only once a week.
Yeah that is good to know. Our growing season is pretty late, we don't start getting 70F weather until mid to late June so I think just to be safe, I am going to start one more batch before I get these in the ground, two months should be plenty of time for them to develop. This time, I am not going to add any fertilizer at all, just water and let them do their thing
 

manfisher

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Yeah that is good to know. Our growing season is pretty late, we don't start getting 70F weather until mid to late June so I think just to be safe, I am going to start one more batch before I get these in the ground, two months should be plenty of time for them to develop. This time, I am not going to add any fertilizer at all, just water and let them do their thing
Best case scenario and these fert burned seedlings pop off nice and healthy, I'll give the seedlings from my new batch to the members in my pipe club
 

manfisher

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All plants are in the ground today and going to start my next batch tonight. Nice weather this whole week, upper 50-60 during the day this whole next week with sun and a few clouds here and there. I’m a bit worried about Tuesday and Wednesday nights though as it will be mid 30s at night (35-37). Hoping they’ll survive those nights, I was considering covering them with pots during the day those two days to trap heat during the night. What are your thoughts on those temps? Almost immediately after planting my VA Golds began to wilt, what I believe is simply transplant shock, a few other seedlings were the same but not too worried. Hopefully these puppies like the free range!IMG_0874.jpeg
 

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manfisher

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Additionally how often and how much water should the plants be getting the first week after transplant?
 

manfisher

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What seems to be another “daily” update. This Friday once the plants have acclimated to their new soil, I plant to install a drip irrigation system since my tobacco patch is so far away from the house. Not entirely sure how it will work since I’ll have to use a 50+ft hose to get the water to my patch but we’ll see
 

manfisher

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Does anyone know what’s wrong with these leaves? Yellow mottling on the leaves, watering about once every 7-10 days, only been fertilized oncwIMG_0888.jpeg
 

Knucklehead

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click on the protection methods tab here:
 

manfisher

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I call on the aid of the experienced tobacco wizards. Came to check on the plants at my folks house on my off day and had a sad sight. The VA Gold has pretty much died in the week since I planted it, the leaves were limp, white, and decaying. Semois, KY190, and Black Sea Sampsun were the same. Good news is for the Semois and VA Gold at least, the stems were still firm, green and there possibly seemed to be new growth. On the other hand, my VA 15 and Burley 21 that were planted in the solo cups seemed to be doing pretty good with new growth and relatively healthy, albeit slightly droopy leaves, they had seemed grow a bit. I think there are two factors that lead to this failure. All of the plants that really suffered were from my first batch and I didn’t wanted them enough which lead to poor root development. Additionally, it’s been in the 40s and 30s at night so I think I planted way too early. Hopefully they pop off
 

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manfisher

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@deluxestogie do you think it would be more beneficial to set up a greenhouse over my existing beds? I feel like long term, that might be a better solution especially since hour Summers are very hot but VERY dry, almost zero humidity at all
 

deluxestogie

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The last time I worked with plants inside a greenhouse was in 1963. I suggest planning to transplant at or after your published, "last frost" date, and then checking the 2-week forecast the morning you plan to transplant. That approach has failed me (i.e. unexpected, late frost) only once since this forum was founded in 2011.

Once tobacco is established, the ambient humidity will have little impact on its growth, so long as you water the plants when needed. Greenhouses can provide a closely controlled environment, but come along their own unique problems of temperature control, humidity control, and ventilation control, as well as some pests that are not typical in the open field.

Bob
 

manfisher

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The last time I worked with plants inside a greenhouse was in 1963. I suggest planning to transplant at or after your published, "last frost" date, and then checking the 2-week forecast the morning you plan to transplant. That approach has failed me (i.e. unexpected, late frost) only once since this forum was founded in 2011.

Once tobacco is established, the ambient humidity will have little impact on its growth, so long as you water the plants when needed. Greenhouses can provide a closely controlled environment, but come along their own unique problems of temperature control, humidity control, and ventilation control, as well as some pests that are not typical in the open field.

Bob
What is weird is that I planted two weeks after the last frost for my area yet we have had two nights in the past week where it has reached 30 and the rest have been 35-40F. I was duped! I think I will go and get some of the floating row covers you mentioned today
 

manfisher

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I looked everywhere for floating row covers and it didn't seem like anyone sold them near me, only option was to buy online. Seeing as we are going to be having low 30's temps this week in the evenings, I didn't have time to order so instead, constructed a "greenhouse" with PCV and translucent painters tarp over the beds to keep the heat in. They are past the week point and therefore I am hoping their past the transfer shock stage. The plants are about 3-4in in diameter now and anywhere from 2-4in tall. They were being watered daily for the past week. How often should I be watering them from now on? Twice a week? Three times a week?
 

deluxestogie

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How often should I be watering them from now on?
Whenever they actually need it. It depends on the soil permeability and water retention, the average ambient humidity, and frequency / intensity of rainfall. If the plants look perky at the end of a hot afternoon, then they won't need watering the next day. If they seem droopy, but then perk-up after sunset, then they won't need watering the next day.

When you do water, soak the soil so that it glistens for a few seconds afterwards.

Bob
 

Huffen'Snuff

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Was looking over some of my seedlings for my second batch that will go in the ground probably some time around late April to Early May for general health. All seem to be a bit stunted in size except for a handful. I have been adding fish emulsion 5-4-4 for root development at 2/3 strength. Strangely though, among my larger seedlings I noticed some yellow discoloration on the outside of the leaves and for the new leaves starting up from the middle, they are green at the top but a lime greenish-yellow as if approaches the stalk of the plant. I’m not sure if I am over watering, or if they are nitrogen deficient. I’m going to wait about two more days before watering again with some great urea free orchid fert @Knucklehead suggested and see if that helps. If it doesn’t, I’ll back off water and fert for a week and see what goes down. Happy to get some suggestions on what you think is going on.View attachment 50560View attachment 50561View attachment 50562
They are really looking great under the blurple lighting, such a pretty plant.
 
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