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Bex Grow Blog 2017

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Bex

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Just as an aside, I went to the hardware store yesterday to get the tying wire. We have a great hardware store here, that's been in business for generations - you go in, tell the guys what your 'plan' is, and they work it out with you. Of course, my plans are always weird (for example, the convertible top of my old jeep is held in place with cup hooks, bought at this store). So, yesterday I go in for the tying wire. The same guy always seems to serve me (he told me yesterday that he is more and more 'impressed' with me each time I go in there...LOL). I explain my plan to him. Turns out that he's a smoker, and is amazed that I am trying to grow tobacco here. Why not? After all, I grow my own vegetables, as well..... Amusingly, I have LOADS of photos of my tobacco grow from this year in my phone - I go up every week and take a 'pictorial' to watch the tobacco growth. I show him these photos - the same way most people are showing photos of their children or grandchildren. I gave him one of my cigs to smoke (but don't yet know his determination). However, he was totally impressed with the fact that I smoke for about $100 a year.....cartons of cigs here cost about $120, and I would go through one of them about every 10 days. Of course, you are paying for all the additional chemicals that tobacco companies kindly inject into their tobacco.....LOL.
 

deluxestogie

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...he told me yesterday that he is more and more 'impressed' with me each time I go in there...
And well he should be. It is no exaggeration to say that you are the most experienced tobacco grower in all of Ireland.

By the way, your latest flue-cure batch looks excellent.

Bob
 

Bex

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:rolleyes: It still has that kind of wonky smell, but I'm doing what you told me to do last year - lay it out in the air for a while (on the spare bed). Last year, this worked a treat, and within a few weeks or so, it had a lovely, sweet tobacco smell.....
 

Charly

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I agree, your flue cured leaves have a beautiful color ! I hope you will enjoy it ;)
 

Bex

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Tutu, it's coming along really well, and is very easy to grow here. I'm just hoping I don't screw it up when curing it. I'm assuming that it's air cured like burley - is that correct???
 

Bex

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I see it's been a month since I last posted....my bad!...as they say. Our summer here has been horrible - I live in the northwest corner of Ireland, about 100 yards from the sea, and have rarely seen the sun in months - literally!! We have rain here almost every day, and the temps never went past 60F all summer. In the meantime, my crappy tunnel - no longer a tunnel, but just a windbreak - is holding up fairly well, all things considering. I've been reading the forum about curing burley - I' haven't dealt with burley before, but found that some of my leaf has begun to turn yellow on the plant - I've strung those few leaves up in the shed:
IMG_0417.jpg

I'll give the rest of them a couple of more weeks. I see from some of the blogs here that sometimes you do air cure with the green leaf, and I may have to end up doing that, depending on what weather rolls in.

My Amersfoort was grown outside, and still looks healthy, although none of the bottom leaves have begun to yellow:
IMG_0419.jpg

On the bottom left of the photo, you'll see some Virginia that I grew outside, as I ran out of room in the 'tunnel'. I've already started flue curing some of that.

I'm on my 7th flue curing run, being a lot more careful about waiting until the leaf was ripe before priming it. I found that my chamber does a lot better with less leaf, and my runs end up being about 60 or so leaves at a time. Each run has taken about a week, and most of the leaf is curing fairly well...with one or two bad boys, as seen in this photo:

IMG_0424.jpg

The Virginia in the tunnel is about 3/4 primed now.....this year, I did twice as many burley plants as I did last year. The Hickory Pryor that I tried in the tunnel didn't do well - it's barely 2 feet high, the leaf is small, etc. I even tried some of this in my greenhouse, but it didn't do well there, either.

When my flue curing is done, I'm going to try my hand at kilning (although did I read, somewhere in the massive amount of info on this site, that flue cured tobacco does not do well when kilned??? That statement keeps bubbling up through the depths of my mind, but I've never been able to find that info again.....)

I'm pretty pleased with my results thus far, this year. For me, the trick was germinating a LOT earlier than I thought necessary - I planted my seeds in mid February, far earlier than I've ever done before. But, amusingly, I've had little trouble with my flue curing. It's funny, I had a 'diary' of my runs, starting from my first attempt in 2014. It shows that, in 2014, I was running out to my chamber (up in the shed) about every hour to see what was going on...LOL. Now, I'm basically a 'set and forget' kind of curer - my color cure basically takes about 3 days, and then (as per something I once read in one of DGBama's posts), I let the humidity tell me how to move on. The vent I put in my chamber was a Godsend, as well, and made all the difference in the world.

I am hoping that my burley turns out successfully this year. My basic blend is now 50/50 burley/Virginia, and if all is well, it's actually quite possible that I could be somewhat 'self sufficient' with all of this.

Next year, my plan is to do all of my tunnel with the pot arrangement that I did this year. It worked a treat, and the difference between the potted side of the tunnel vs the 'good' side of the tunnel, is amazing. Plus, with the pots, the weeding issue goes right out the window - I had no weeds at all on the potted side, which is a plus for any lazy gardener......

Strangely, my plants flowered about 6 weeks or more ago - sometime toward the middle/end of July. But the flowers are just sitting there, with no indication of wilting or anything else. Not a pod to be seen! But one of the things that gardening teaches you is patience.....I've been a bad student, but am finally learning......:)
 

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Nice flue-cured leaf.

I would say the greatest change in my tobacco growing and curing, between my first grow and now, is that I have gone from hand-wringing to comfort with the vicissitudes of nature. I enjoy it more.

Bob
 

Gavroche

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You have a solution against weed... Some brown cardboard(box), some fertilizer or some compost, and a little sieved earth(ground) (the earth(ground) of molehills for example), it on fifteen centimeters high. You will have only very few weed and they will almost have no roots.


Vous avez une solution contre les mauvaises herbes... Du carton marron, du fumier ou du compost, et un peu de terre tamisée ( la terre des taupinières par exemple ) , cela sur quinze centimètres de haut. Vous n'aurez que très peu de mauvaises herbes et elles n'auront presque pas de racines.
 

Bex

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I had done something similar with a bit of garden behind my house - the area was partly grass, and partly old concrete from a disused 'driveway'. I put down a membrane and then stones on top. It was great for about a year. I live in farm country, though, and the grass growing in the fields around my home normally go to seed. Within two years, I had grass and weeds growing on top of that membrane (which sat on concrete!!). While the weeds were easy enough to pull, there were loads of them. I found that with the pot side of my tunnel, where there was only enough width for one of my feet, in between each pot (and where I was constantly stepping!!) the weeds just never had a chance.....:)
 

Bex

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Storing tobacco.....
I've been searching the forum for suggestions.....I see that I am now starting to get a bit of mold on a some of the leaves from last year. Sadly when I search for 'mold', I find all sorts of suggestions on how to roll cigars in a mold - not really what I was looking for...... Just wondering for those of you who store your tobacco for a number of years, how you prevent mold, etc. I panicked when I saw the mold - basically just on the midrib....I decided I needed to get rid of it, so I picked out every leaf that had mold, and dumped them on a rack in my chamber, and fired the chamber up to 64C. Now, whether or not this actually had any effect, I don't know....but at least psychologically, I felt I was 'murdering' all this mold....LOL. Anyway, the lesson learned is that I cannot store my tobacco in the unheated rooms in my house (which are just about all of them). Or, if I can, I need to air it, fluff it around, etc. So, I'd like a bit of guidance as to how people store it. I had mine in plastic tubs - obviously the wrong thing to do, perhaps??? .....:(
 

deluxestogie

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The number one method of preventing mold is to completely dry the tobacco, then bring it again into just enough case so that it can be handled. In a tub, you could probably store it completely dry. With whole leaves that have mold only on the stems, just remove the thickest portion of the stem, or at least the moldy section of stem.

Stems are often more hygroscopic than the leaf lamina, so in some environmental conditions, the stem may draw more moisture from the air than does the lamina. So the stems are more likely to mold.

Store bought, shredded tobacco of every sort contains humectants, which allow them to feel "moist" forever, and also serves as an antifungal agent. Clean tobacco, by contrast, needs to have a drier feel than that, in order to store without the risk of molding.

Bob
 

Leftynick

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I live in a hot, humid area all year long. I dont have tobacco aged more than one year but here, even if I leave them to color cure too long it will mold. I have to store them as soon as the stem turn color by drying it to very low case, the stem snapped when I fold them. Then just let rehydrate them when I need to, like when I ready to kiln them. I also take the leave out of kiln very low case, and store them in plastic bag inside a cardboard box.

I used scissor for shredding so for my cigarette tobacco, I just take out some leaves, roll them into cigar shape and shred. I dont add any moisture. For cigar I add moisture accordingly, straight out of storage for filler, add some moisture for binder and wrapper.

I store my cardboard box full of tobacco in the same room as my color curing tobacco. So far no mold in the storage.
 

Tutu

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I have also experienced that tobacco with larger stems draw more mold. For instance my KxA leaf yielded extremely large, with large stems, that were difficult to get fully dry. After curing I press my leaf to make nicely looking opened bundles. With this larger leaf I drew much more mold along the stems than with the other. I suspect it's simply because larger stems need more time to dry. So yes, the stems are the real bottleneck that determine when tobacco should be stored, regardless of the environment.

I also find that just like Leftynick, I will get mold when colour curing. I can't wait for too long or they'll turn slightly moldy and the leaf has to go outside for sun curing. The room in which I colour cure doesn't have much air ventilation, which I think is key if you want to prevent mold during this stage of curing in a tropical, humid environment like we are in.

I store my cured tobacco in the same room as where I colour cure as well.
 

DistillingJim

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Did I read somewhere that its ok to wipe the effected parts down with vinegar if its just white mould on the midrib?
 

Bex

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Thanks for the responses!! I suppose my problem arose from when I would finish curing, the leaf would be dry, and I would store the leaf in a sealed plastic box. When I would open the box, I would get a bit of a lemony smell, so I aired the tobacco out for a few days, and the smell went away. In a continuation of that, I never sealed the plastic boxes completely, when I stored them in the unheated room. They were certainly manageable, and didn't feel more damp than the leaf that I buy. I have now shredded everything from two years ago - it will be easier for me to store in bags, in my heated room.
In any event, someone sent me this, so hopefully my problem, at least for the moment, has been solved: "Heat does kill mold, and it doesn't take a blistering hot oven to do it. According to Ohio State University, most molds cannot survive above 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

deluxestogie

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Keep in mind that temps above 149ºF will denature the primary enzyme that allows leaf to age. For flue-cured tobacco, this already occurs during the high temps of flue-curing, so it won't matter if you later heat the leaf above that. Flue-cured leaf does continue to slowly change with age, but it accomplishes that using a slower, secondary enzyme that denatures at 191ºF.

Bob
 

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Hurricane Ophelia

This is a storm of rare strength for the eastern North Atlantic, probably the strongest in at least a half-century.

Ophelia_20171015_2100UDT_NOAA.JPG


The GFS spaghetti models don't leave much wiggle room. The entire nation of Ireland is on red alert.

Ophelia_20171015_GFS.JPG


Ophelia_20171015_2123UDT_nullschool.JPG


Ophelia_20171015_2100UDT_windArrival.JPG


Take care.

Bob
 
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