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Deluxe Stogie's North Rim Road Trip (in three short parts)

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deluxestogie

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Bob's 2019 North Rim Road Trip: Part 1 of 3

My brother, Richard, and I drove from the Blacksburg, VA area to down by Birmingham, AL to pick up my grandson, Hayden. The following morning, the three of us set out on our road trip to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

We managed (with 4 cameras) to capture well over 500 images. Each part here displays 8.

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Hayden snapped this of me and Richard at the Arkansas Rest Area.

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For about an hour of Interstate highway in Oklahoma, this bug hung on for dear life, outside the front passenger window, as we tooled down the road at 70 mph.

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This was an intentional stop at the site of the damaged motel in El Reno, OK, struck by a tornado the previous month. It leaves an impression.

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At Page, AZ, we took the guided tour of the Glenn Canyon Dam. Highly recommended. Those square, passenger elevator towers drop down more than 50 stories, to the base of the dam, where we could see the maintenance tunnels as well as the 8 enormous turbine electrical generators.

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The top of the dam now only allows employee parking. Security is depressingly heavy. But the top is as wide as an Interstate highway.

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Glenn Canyon used to be a favorite rafter/hiker destination within the Grand Canyon (just not inside the designated National Park boundaries). After the dam was finished, in 1963, it took 17 years for the a lake (dubbed Lake Powell) to fill the beautiful canyon. The lake level is about 90 feet below the "full" mark, so you now see a "bathtub ring". Now, you can sit in a boat above more than 500 feet of water.

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From a distance, the Grand Canyon just looks like a crack across the surface of a perfectly flat desert. The Vermillion Cliffs stand above, at the horizon. Not a bad pic for a 12 year old.

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All the way up to the 1930s, the only way to cross the Grand Canyon (with contraband, stolen horses, legitimate trade, etc.) was to go down to the river at Lee's Ferry, and take the tethered ferry boat across. Today, Lee's ferry is the launching point for most Colorado River water excursions: dories, kayaks, and the popular "banana rafts", like the one shown here. Those big rafts never sink, though rapids sometimes throw a passenger or two overboard. They can carry a crowd of seated tourists, along with ice chests, cases of beer, chilled ribeye steaks, and other backcountry essentials.

Part 2 continues below.

Bob
 

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Bob's 2019 North Rim Road Trip: Part 2 of 3

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The balanced rock, with Hayden and Richard beneath it, is located along the road from US 89A down to Lee's Ferry.

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I selected two trees for Hayden to identify. (More than that on one trip, and they all get fuzzy in memory.) Here is a quaking aspen along a meadow north of the North Rim. The other tree on my list was Podnerosa pine. When it gets over 100 years old, and the bark turns a chocolate brown, it smells like baking vanilla cookies when the sun strikes it.

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First of all, I should mention that it's a 4 to 5 hour drive to reach the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Most of the park's 4.5 million visitors each year go to only the overcrowded, theme-park-like South Rim, with only a tiny trickle showing up at the North Rim during peak season. It's just lovely there. The image above is an iconic view from the North Rim, looking down Bright Angel Canyon, with the South Rim visible in the distance. The Grand Canyon is about 1 mile deep, from rim to river.

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The only road to the North Rim, AZ 67, just abruptly ends at the entrance to the North Rim Lodge.

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My 30 year old Eureka Timberline tent finally gave up the ghost on this trip. It's nylon door zippers permanently jammed open (including the mesh door). Fortunately, I did not see a single mosquito or other biting insect anywhere in Arizona. [I had to wait to get home again to get a mosquito bite.] The North Rim campground is well maintained and uncrowded.

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You can park beside the tent site, which offers an improved fire-ring with a grill, as well as a picnic table. Water and bathrooms were not far away.

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Gotta have that morning coffee!

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I can no longer mount or dismount an equine, so Richard went along with Hayden for a 1 hour mule ride along a rim trail. (Taking a mule to the bottom of the Canyon comes with a 100% guarantee of blisters on your butt.) Of course, the mule skinners take an idividual portrait of each mounted guest at the end of the ride -->an irresistible $15, available as soon as you complete the ride. [The Kolb brothers did the same thing at the South Rim for the first half of the 20th century.]

Part 3 continues below.

Bob
 

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Bob's 2019 North Rim Road Trip: Part 3 of 3

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The stunning and easy trail to Bright Angel Point begins just below the North Rim Lodge. I was much slower that Richard (who is my older brother) and Hayden, so I was able to capture them returning from Bright Angel Point.

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Depending on the time of day and angle of the sun, the endless, repeating layers of the Canyon range from monotonous to visually striking. This is the Transept side canyon in the morning.

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Me.

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After two nights at the North Rim, we drove around to the South Rim, and after a brief look at a few key overlooks, continued on south to Tusayan, AZ for the night. There, we stayed at the clean and underutilized Ten-X campground in the National Forest. We purchased fresh veggies and hamburger in Tusayan, and Hayden prepared a from-scratch meal for the three of us on the fire that he built.

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Driving through the southwest always offers an opportunity to view the "big sky" in its many guises.

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I ate breakfast at the Silver Moon Cafe, in Santa Rosa, NM 13 years ago, on the way to backpacking in the Canyon. This time, we stopped for dinner on the return trip.

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On the way west, we stayed at the Shamrock Country Inn (on old Route 66), in Shamrock, TX, the first night out from Birmingham--a long drive. We arrived there on the return journey at 3 am, yet the manager held the same room for us--his last available room. There is no doubt that you're in Texas.

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Hayden plucked a 1) volcanic rock from the roadside in New Mexico, a couple of 2) totally cured and dried buffalo chips (poop) near the North Rim, and a 3) chunk of vanilla-smelling Ponderosa pine bark that had peeled from its dead trunk at the Rim.

I've just today finished publishing a photo book for Hayden that has his written introduction, a gazillion of our photos--captioned, and is 8-1/2" x 11", full-color, 60 pages. He named it, "Hayden's Jaw-Dropping Experience". A copy will go to me, each of my siblings, and copies to Hayden, including one for him to donate (signed by the author, of course--him) to his school library. Such a family keepsake for only $14 a pop just can't be beat.

Bob
 

waikikigun

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Nice trip log, thanks. I thought I hauled butt recently when I left the south rim at 10 a.m. and drove all the way to Santa Barbara in time for dinner. Seems like you guys really tore up the asphalt.
 

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Nice trip & photos. National Forests/Grasslands are almost always underutilized, and often nicer than NP's. Great treasures, all.
 

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Seems like you guys really tore up the asphalt.
I've done this "East Coast" to "Canyon" run several times over the decades, always planning two driving days (~1000 miles per day) each way--regardless of the number of drivers available. Ha! Well, it has been 13 years since my last such trip. To my utter shock, I'm 13 years older than then. [My proposed title for Hayden's book was, "Two Codgers and a Kid".] It's really way too much driving each day for two guys in their seventies. Three drivers might still be workable in two days.

For me and my brother, it was just a wonderful trip to a beloved destination. For my 12 year old grandson, raised in Alabama, it was an introduction to the vastness of our country, to one of the man-made wonders, and to one of the natural wonders of the world. In one morning, he heard nearly a dozen different languages from across the globe. There's more out there to drop one's jaw about than he had ever suspected. I hope it was transformative.

Bob
 

waikikigun

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I've done this "East Coast" to "Canyon" run several times over the decades, always planning two driving days (~1000 miles per day) each way--regardless of the number of drivers available. Ha! Well, it has been 13 years since my last such trip. To my utter shock, I'm 13 years older than then. [My proposed title for Hayden's book was, "Two Codgers and a Kid".] It's really way too much driving each day for two guys in their seventies. Three drivers might still be workable in two days.

For me and my brother, it was just a wonderful trip to a beloved destination. For my 12 year old grandson, raised in Alabama, it was an introduction to the vastness of our country, to one of the man-made wonders, and to one of the natural wonders of the world. In one morning, he heard nearly a dozen different languages from across the globe. There's more out there to drop one's jaw about than he had ever suspected. I hope it was transformative.

Bob
Yeah, I can't conceive of those kind of miles, and I'm only in my late 50s. If I make it to my 70s I'll probably need at least a week to get to the gc. To give an idea of my non-propensity to drive, I went OKC-Albuquerque on day 1, Alb-Flagstaff on Day 2, and I was sore and exhausted each night. Day 3 I had no intention of driving all the way back to SB. Figured Barstow was a longshot.

Anyway, I split from Flagstaff about 4:30 a.m. and booked up to the South Rim to get to a spot before sunrise, and I just made it. That's my silhouette in this album, sun just cracking the rim behind me. Plus there's a few more snaps I took this time around. The place is a miracle at sunrise and sunset, and just a dull mire of tourists in-between. Before 9 a.m., when the tourist busses start pulling in, I hit all the typical lookout spots along the 64 and saw a total of maybe 4 dudes, all of them painting the canyon.

 

deluxestogie

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Nice photos.

The true secret to visiting the Grand Canyon (if you're young enough to backpack--certainly up to well past your 50s) is to get a backcountry permit, and hike down into the Canyon to spend a few days. See it in the flesh. Feel it; smell it. Taste your treated drinking water from the river and the creeks. Finish the trip knowing that you've just passed your cardiac stress test.

[My last trek there, after climbing out, I ordered a huge meal at the Bright Angel Lodge, right on the rim. When the waitress asked which side-dish I would like, I stared at the list of a half-dozen choices, then said, "All of them." And I gobbled it all down. You can't really eat "unhealthy" when you're backpacking the Canyon. You can only eat not enough to pay the piper.]

The thought of not being able to do it in their Gucci shoes deters most tourists from undertaking more than token walking down a switchback or two of one of the rim-to-river trails. When you finally climb back out, all sweaty and unbathed after backpacking, tourists wrinkle their noses as you pass them. But it's the real (non-DisneyLand) Grand Canyon experiences that will seduce you to return.

The leaves on the cottonwood trees at Phantom Ranch are just beginning to turn yellow in mid-to-late December. Christmas is a spectacular time of year to backpack the Canyon. And the tourist burden is minimal. That's for the South Rim only. The North Rim road is usually buried under many feet of snow from early fall until very late spring.

Bob
 

waikikigun

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Nice photos.

The true secret to visiting the Grand Canyon (if you're young enough to backpack--certainly up to well past your 50s) is to get a backcountry permit, and hike down into the Canyon to spend a few days. See it in the flesh. Feel it; smell it. Taste your treated drinking water from the river and the creeks. Finish the trip knowing that you've just passed your cardiac stress test.

[My last trek there, after climbing out, I ordered a huge meal at the Bright Angel Lodge, right on the rim. When the waitress asked which side-dish I would like, I stared at the list of a half-dozen choices, then said, "All of them." And I gobbled it all down. You can't really eat "unhealthy" when you're backpacking the Canyon. You can only eat not enough to pay the piper.]

The thought of not being able to do it in their Gucci shoes deters most tourists from undertaking more than token walking down a switchback or two of one of the rim-to-river trails. When you finally climb back out, all sweaty and unbathed after backpacking, tourists wrinkle their noses as you pass them. But it's the real (non-DisneyLand) Grand Canyon experiences that will seduce you to return.

The leaves on the cottonwood trees at Phantom Ranch are just beginning to turn yellow in mid-to-late December. Christmas is a spectacular time of year to backpack the Canyon. And the tourist burden is minimal. That's for the South Rim only. The North Rim road is usually buried under many feet of snow from early fall until very late spring.

Bob
That sounds like an adventure I would be extremely keen to go on. I have two in-laws who are the sorts who would desperately like to join me on such a trip. Unfortunately one now feels anchored to her bi-polar shut-in hubs, and the other to his vapor trail-fearing, non-home-town-leaving-even-for-an-afternoon wife, who got extremely upset with him when I pried him away to go on a one-month kayak trip down the Sea of Cortez. They've both been swearing to God that we'd do a Colorado River rafting trip together before we were all too old to understand what was happening to us.... thing is, I probably know as well as you do what a short blink-of-an-eye hop it is from 57 to 70-something. My 40th was just a few weeks ago.
 

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Great trip ... glad you had a good time!
The descriptor of "vanilla" from those Ponderosa Pines is spot on, too. :)

~Darin
 

deluxestogie

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If find this fascinating. It is definitely not true for Loblolly and long-needle pines! LOL
To my knowledge, that trait is unique to Ponderosa pine, and is an identifying characteristic. (It is distinctly odd to see somebody stick his nose close to a tree trunk, and sniff. I guess you might call them "tree sniffers".)

Bob
 

CobGuy

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When there is a forest-fire nearby, I can tell if it's Ponderosa vs. Cedar / Piñon right away.
That vanilla-like smell carries on the smoke for miles and miles.
Also, I have three of them on my property that stand 60-80 feet tall.

~Darin
 

GreenDragon

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When there is a forest-fire nearby, I can tell if it's Ponderosa vs. Cedar / Piñon right away.
That vanilla-like smell carries on the smoke for miles and miles.
Also, I have three of them on my property that stand 60-80 feet tall.

~Darin

Hmmm. Wonder if it would make a tasty Dark Fired Kentucky?
 

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I've got Mesquite and Pecan for that experiment too ... so many ideas, so little time! :)

~Darin
 

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Beautiful trip with your family, Bob !
That's some very precious moments and memories, they are always too few in a lifetime.
Thanks for sharing it with us.
 

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In 1984, I took Hayden's father, then 6 years old, to the Grand Canyon. It left such a deep impression that, to this day (he's now 41), he recalls the specific music I played on my car's fancy, new audio cassette player: Tangerine Dream (Exit) and Jean Michel Jarre (Oxygene and Magnetic Fields). On this journey, I had those particular pieces, as mp3 files, among others, on a thumb drive. Tangerine Dream got a thumbs up, but Jean Michel Jarre unfortunately received a double veto.

[In preparation for this trip, I discovered that Tangerine Dream released, in 2015, an album of the pieces that their founder, Edgar Froese, had been working on at the time of his death a couple of years earlier. The surviving members completed and recorded those pieces as a final tribute to Edgar. I purchased the CD, and delivered it to my son when I arrived in Alabama to pick up Hayden for this trip. -- The gossamer threads that connect the parts of our lives...]

Bob
 

waikikigun

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In 1984, I took Hayden's father, then 6 years old, to the Grand Canyon. It left such a deep impression that, to this day (he's now 41), he recalls the specific music I played on my car's fancy, new audio cassette player: Tangerine Dream (Exit) and Jean Michel Jarre (Oxygene and Magnetic Fields). On this journey, I had those particular pieces, as mp3 files, among others, on a thumb drive. Tangerine Dream got a thumbs up, but Jean Michel Jarre unfortunately received a double veto.

[In preparation for this trip, I discovered that Tangerine Dream released, in 2015, an album of the pieces that their founder, Edgar Froese, had been working on at the time of his death a couple of years earlier. The surviving members completed and recorded those pieces as a final tribute to Edgar. I purchased the CD, and delivered it to my son when I arrived in Alabama to pick up Hayden for this trip. -- The gossamer threads that connect the parts of our lives...]

Bob
I'm a tad cheesed that Oxygene was vetoed. I listened to this album excessively through my high school years and it's what led me to become a synth nut. I was already a guitar player but from the first moment I heard that record I knew that electronic music was going to be a big part of my life. I later became the keyboard player in a new wave band on account of those hours laying in my dorm with the headphones on, and from thereon out I was never without at least two analog synths on-hand. In fact I just sold an ARP Odyssey and am now shopping for a Jupiter 4. Those, alas, run $5000. Ironically I never took to Moog synths, which are prominent in Jarre's work.
 

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Looks like good times with your brother and nephew.
I wish I could deal with my brother for more than a minute. Just his voice sends me running.
 

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I have 5 siblings: two older and three younger. Two of them would be an absolute no-go on a road trip (or a lengthy birthday party). My late mother was a saint to have made it through raising all six of us in the same house, and remaining sane. But that's just the nature of people.

My grandson, by contrast, was just as delightful to spend time with as my son (his dad) has been on past excursions. And at 12, he's at an age when he really needs to know that Alabama is not the be all and end all. [No offense to Alabamites.]

Bob
 
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