Getting ready to start a home cigar factory

[FmGrowit]

I try to roll my cigars with the leaf in a ready to smoke condition. It's not that I intend on smoking them right away (except for the wrapper), but if the leaf is too moist, the cigar can get moldy why it's aging. I've rolled single variety sand lugs in the field and have enjoyed them very much..

 

[CoralReefs]

I smoked the second one I rolled a little bit ago. That is the one that I allowed to dry overnight. I was happier with the flavor of that one, although it got a little nasty toward the end. Draw was still pretty good and the form was great, however the ones I roll tonight, I plan to add a little bit more filler to get something a little firmer.
I did have problems with them going out fairly quickly- I suspect that they were a tad too moist. I did not add moisture to the leaf bundles when I got them, they were already lightly hydrated although with this cigar the wrapper leaf I had out did go dry so I lightly moistened it with a squirt of a sprayer and wrapped it in a towel for a little bit before rolling. I see that one challenge is figuring out how to walk the balance of stretching the wrapper (and binder to a degree) without ripping the leaf.
Burning was nice and even which was good. Overall not bad!

The lady of the house did comment that the cigars smelled like beef jerky!

 

[CoralReefs]

I try to roll my cigars with the leaf in a ready to smoke condition. It's not that I intend on smoking them right away (except for the wrapper), but if the leaf is too moist, the cigar can get moldy why it's aging. I've rolled single variety sand lugs in the field and have enjoyed them very much..

How much moisture should the filler leaf have? And do you unwrap the filler before rolling? I unwrapped it just enough to de-vein it.

 

[deluxestogie]

My suggestion is filler in low case (noisy, but barely flexible). The lamina do not crumble as you stem it. If it is unpressed, whole leaf, then stem it, and leave the strips wrinkled. If the filler leaf is pressed flat, then you will need to accordiopleat it, or bunch it by hand.

Binder needs to be at least in medium case (sounds like thick vinyl, but is fully flexible).

Wrapper should be in medium to high case (feels slightly damp), so that it is maximally stretchy. For pretty cigars, I trim the outer edge of the leaf strip. If it's heavy leaf, like CT Broadleaf, then I also trim the inner 1/2" of the strip, to eliminate the thickest part of the veins.

The Binder needs to contain most of the compressive force of rolling.

If the filler is just barely in case, then you can usually roll very tightly, and it will still draw. You can smoke such a cigar immediately, regardless of the case of the binder and wrapper. If the filler is in medium case, then it will compress into a solid dowel, if you're not careful, and will usually burn poorly until it dries (which may take up to 2 weeks).

I should add that there is a great deal of variation, depending on the nature of your leaf. If I'm using a non-wrapper variety as my wrapper, I will often roll it with the wrapper in only medium case, and accept a few wrinkles, since the leaf my not have good tensile strength when in high case.

Having good quality wrapper dramatically accelerates the learning curve when you are first starting out. Once your fingers know what to do, then you can handle less ideal leaf for use as a wrapper.

Bob

 

[CoralReefs]

By case do you mean moisture level?

I rolled about 4 more day before yesterday so I can see how the flavor changes over a period of a few weeks worth of aging in my humidor. I smoked one last night that I let sit out to dry for a day and a half.

Flavor on that one was a huge improvement which corroborates my suspicion that I was rolling with the filler too moist. I also had problems with the cigar staying lit, especially toward the end. Draw was terrible (as in air flowed easily but you had to really puff to get some smoke going. Again, I attribute this to the filler loosening up too much after drying out.)

There was a point in the middle where the cigar got a bit harsh, I cut that section out and examined it- it was significantly more moist than rest. The remainder of the cigar was pretty good.

Still very happy with the flavor of the tobacco overall.

(This is starting to turn into my cigar rolling log...)

 

[BarG]

Having good quality wrapper dramatically accelerates the learning curve when you are first starting out. Once your fingers know what to do, then you can handle less ideal leaf for use as a wrapper.

Bob

Is CT. broadleaf a full sun and shade variety. I plan on growing a few different varietys in a semi sun location, probably mostly morning and dappled sun,as well as full sun . I plan on putting some mcy .havana 425 and 41, Florida Sumatra. What about the Ct. broadleaf, would it do okay. I'm wondering if it would make a lighter leaf, or would it matter as I have never seen a Ct. broadleaf.

 

[BarG]

I try to roll my cigars with the leaf in a ready to smoke condition. It's not that I intend on smoking them right away (except for the wrapper), but if the leaf is too moist, the cigar can get moldy why it's aging. I've rolled single variety sand lugs in the field and have enjoyed them very much..

I've been sitting on my spanish cedar humidor material for a year now. I'll probably never roll a personal cigar I won't smoke right away. What I do need is a armoir size furniture piece with a spanish cedar lining and appropiate humidifiers,hygrometors ,shelves and racks for storing in medium case one side, and low case the other side, so no prep is needed except for wrapper. That would work for storing ample supply whole leaf for cigs. and cigars.

 

[deluxestogie]

Is CT. broadleaf a full sun and shade variety. .... What about the Ct. broadleaf, would it do okay. I'm wondering if it would make a lighter leaf, or would it matter as I have never seen a Ct. broadleaf.

Tim,
I've never grown any tobacco in shade. Shade itself (i.e. shadecloth) will give you thinner, larger size leaves. The shade of a tree, however, will also give you root competition.

I would be inclined to do the CT Broadleaf in full sun. But the FL Sumatra was traditionally shade grown.

Bob

 

[BarG]

Thats a good point Bob,I was worried about the tree root system myself. I'll find a better location to try a few plants, without the competition for resources. I'm going to try 2 plants each of 4 varietys just for grins.

Tim

 

[Jitterbugdude]

I've been sitting on my spanish cedar humidor material for a year now.

My suggestion on using Spanish Cedar... Don't.. Why wreck a perfectly grown/crafted tasty cigar with the taste of cedar? I know that historically/traditionally ALL cigars are stored in it. I believe cigars are stored in Spanish Cedar for only 2 reasons (1) To make them all taste the same- a customer expects consistency and uniformity in taste and (2) Spanish Cedar is a very mild insecticide/bactericide etc. This helps stave of mold and beetle infestation. Take my advice and do what I did years ago... throw away your Spanish Cedar

 

[BarG]

I understood it was used mainly because it does not impart taste and is very stable during humidity fluctuations, beings how it would be left unfinished.

 

[Tom_in_TN]

I'll probably never roll a personal cigar I won't smoke right away.

BarG, Never say Never. Once you understand (taste) what happens to aged cigars when they develop 'bloom' then you'll understand why cigars are aged. Sometimes for years.

Now, first things first of course....get really good at rolling before making up a whole bunch of cigars. I fully understand the concept of smoking 'em fresh. You learn so much more doing it that way. As tobacco ages the flavors deepen and the taste gets better. The smoke gets smoother and better. Some cigars develop some very nice flavors just being aged for a full year or two. I've smoked many cigars that were several months old and thought they were just barely OK (my standards are very high). Then just let them age at 64/64 for a year or 6 or 8 years. The cigar gets a lot better.

Of course many cigars are rolled from leaves that have been blended by a Master with many years of experience. It takes a long time to figure out how the finished, aged cigar is going to taste a few years ahead of time. It is a never ending job that must be practiced many times a day, every day of the year for many, many years. I mean in reality, who would want a job like that?

Many times the premium cigars are smoked way too young. People who paid $8 to $12 for a cigar then wonder what all the fuss is about when they smoke it before it is time. I used to smoke a cigar brand that cost me 88 cents each, including shipping. When I gave them to friends (aged for a 3 or 4 years) they would really like 'em. I liked them too. But as fresh cigars they were not all that good.

 

[deluxestogie]

JBD is being a bit harsh. I agree with its original uses: bugs, humidification. It was probably chosen, because it was readily available and cheap, and served well to prevent cigars from physical damage in shipment. But good Spanish cedar imparts (to my jaded nose) a desirable undertone to a well aged cigar.

That having been said, my wash stand-size humidor is lined with unfinished basswood. If I had been able to acquire sufficient Spanish cedar in 1972, when I converted the walnut wash stand into a humidor, I would certainly have used it.

Any member who feels the need to throw out their Spanish cedar can PM me for a shipping address.

Bob

EDIT: Spanish cedar is also a superb whittling wood.

 

[BarG]

A friend of mine last weekend told he smoked a $112.00 cigar recently and it tasted terrible.I have a long ways to go as far as being a cigar conniseur. I should try aging a few after I build my kiln to improve the cigar filler and wrapper. Your right about that never say never, thats why I said probably.

 

[BarG]

"JBD is being a bit harsh." Any member who feels the need to throw out their Spanish cedar can PM me for a shipping address.

Bob

EDIT: Spanish cedar is also a superb whittling wood.

Yea, but thats cool cause I like blunt and to the point. How else do you get to the root of the matter. Harsh is Fine cause it is based on his experience.
If i'm veneering with say 1/8"-1/4" for the unfinished interior ,wood stability is a main concern with moisture levels involved. I never realized there was any negatives as far as taste goes, In fact just the opposite, another reason why chosen. [One of these years anyway, on my wish list]

Tim

 

[Jitterbugdude]

JBD is being a bit harsh.

C'mon Bob, Me being harsh?... I'm a nice guy....really!...

 

[Tom_in_TN]

Why do some many cigar reviewers describe the flavor of the cigar being reviewed as having a 'woody' taste? Spanish Cedar my friends, that's why. Listen to JBD. Now, everybody send their Spanish Cedar to Bob.

 

[Tom_in_TN]

A friend of mine last weekend told he smoked a $112.00 cigar recently and it tasted terrible.

I don't question your freinds taste, but his sanity, for spending that much on one cigar. Wow!!! He deserved that lesson because there are a bunch of con artist out and about.

 

[BarG]

He runs in circles different than mine, I doubt very seriously he bought it. He invests in guns and ammo LOL. If his house catches on fire I'm finding a ditch or creek bed to hide in. He did inform me he has a 300 cigar humidor.

 

[johnlee1933]

Tim,

I would be inclined to do the CT Broadleaf in full sun. But the FL Sumatra was traditionally shade grown.

Bob

In the Connecticut valley (Northern CT and southern MA) CT Broadleaf is grown in full sun.


John