leverhead
Well-Known Member
Yup! that's pretty much it. To go up the chimney, you might want to use a fan to keep a draft going and just vent into the inlet.
Idea Curing Box
- Thread starter AmaxB
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AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Am not familiar with a blast gate valve Johnlee1933 do they seal 100%
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Johnlee1933 did a google and found one I like this type thanks for the tip....it would be perfect!
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No. They are designed to be used in high volume air handling systems and work well in house vacuum systems. They leak a bit and could not be used for liquids. However in a normal air flow situation the leakage is minimal. Just Google "air blast gate" and you'll see several different ones pictured in both metal and plastic. I like them and use them freqauently.
Are you talking about something that is self opening by air movement? The one I saw required 90 psi to activate the solenoid.
No. Manually operated slide gate.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I looked around last night for them they were all priced around $30 & up except one site that had one priced at $5 (see picture post #103 this thread) but they had no shopping cart on that site. Will look more today,,,,for it and any other that could work out ok. Got 2 now but if I can do better at less cost great I'll return the ones I bought.
I will vent this thing to the chimney I have an old Pie Plate hole in it that was used in the past to vent an oil furnace (no longer present). The vent for air out will be about a 15' run and will use clothes dry flex duct.
...I'll test the water bucket idea too (just want to know about it) won't be to much messing around to find out.
Got the box (processing / curing tobacco) panels moved to the basement yesterday and started the assembly.
Am thinking I can use an old toaster oven (oven housing only) for the heat box would be safe, easy, and free.
Also thinking of using a second layer of the Hardi Board would add some cost but would also add safety. On the down side it would take longer for the box to reach temperature. What do you guys think?
About Safety am using Fire Stop Caulk while assembling the box between all joints will use it to seal Hardi Board joints too. The vapor wrap is not being used.
I will vent this thing to the chimney I have an old Pie Plate hole in it that was used in the past to vent an oil furnace (no longer present). The vent for air out will be about a 15' run and will use clothes dry flex duct.
...I'll test the water bucket idea too (just want to know about it) won't be to much messing around to find out.
Got the box (processing / curing tobacco) panels moved to the basement yesterday and started the assembly.
Am thinking I can use an old toaster oven (oven housing only) for the heat box would be safe, easy, and free.
Also thinking of using a second layer of the Hardi Board would add some cost but would also add safety. On the down side it would take longer for the box to reach temperature. What do you guys think?
About Safety am using Fire Stop Caulk while assembling the box between all joints will use it to seal Hardi Board joints too. The vapor wrap is not being used.
For the blast gate, you might consider trying e-bay. You might get lucky and find a used one.
A plumbing P-trap might work instead of the bucket trap. Of course you would need a way to add water. It does keep sewer gases and smells out of the house, could work. It would also keep pests from coming in from the outside, but that could be done with screening.
A plumbing P-trap might work instead of the bucket trap. Of course you would need a way to add water. It does keep sewer gases and smells out of the house, could work. It would also keep pests from coming in from the outside, but that could be done with screening.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Hi Knucke
I read your P Trap idea in other thread here on the forum so much going on in my small brain I forgot it... is a possible for sure with a air filter added after the P trap I could test it too than we would know for sure.
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Here are a few pics of things moving along...one is the wiring of control box (pid for ramping). Note it shows 240 /220V for emitters (emitters location is heat box not control box) I may just use the 220V quartz emitters and toaster oven because it is already built would only need to add cut outs for duct and the duct. I have a 220V line in the basement I set up for a buzz box wielder and could use it to power.
If I do it this way I'll remove the toaster oven door and use it in the chamber door to provide a view to the tobacco.
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Wiring detail for control box
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Toaster Oven shows quartz emitters may use as heat box
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Heat control box will use this
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Hardi Board Lable
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Chamber starting assembly 1
Detail note the side piece sitting on top of the bottom piece and the Ply lapping to create a means of lining the pieces up and additional fastening.
I read your P Trap idea in other thread here on the forum so much going on in my small brain I forgot it... is a possible for sure with a air filter added after the P trap I could test it too than we would know for sure.
.
Here are a few pics of things moving along...one is the wiring of control box (pid for ramping). Note it shows 240 /220V for emitters (emitters location is heat box not control box) I may just use the 220V quartz emitters and toaster oven because it is already built would only need to add cut outs for duct and the duct. I have a 220V line in the basement I set up for a buzz box wielder and could use it to power.
If I do it this way I'll remove the toaster oven door and use it in the chamber door to provide a view to the tobacco.
.
Wiring detail for control box
.
Toaster Oven shows quartz emitters may use as heat box
.
Heat control box will use this
.
Hardi Board Lable
.
Chamber starting assembly 1
Detail note the side piece sitting on top of the bottom piece and the Ply lapping to create a means of lining the pieces up and additional fastening.
I may be a little late with this, but turning a regular saw blade around backwards on your circular saw works really well for cutting that backer board.
Talk about small brains I forgot I had already posted about P-trap.
Your build is looking awesome, talk about pulling out all the stops!! Go man go.
Talk about small brains I forgot I had already posted about P-trap.
Your build is looking awesome, talk about pulling out all the stops!! Go man go.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
ripped 1 sheet of the backer board on my little table saw yesterday cut ok but was a dusty event had to hold my breath. Looking for Hygrowmeter now.
Over 3,000. Alot of them BuyNow with free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=hygrometer&_fscr=1
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=hygrometer&_fscr=1
When I worked that stuff I used a face mask for the dust. It got so thick on my classes I got to where I thought I was going blind. LOL
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I got an industrial thing today for 24 bucks is used but looked good also put another one on my watch list. It was up for bid only had an hour & 6 minutes left and no bids than I got to looking at all the other ones and the time ran out with -0- bids. Cuss Cuss so I put it on the list for later
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
It'll ruin a counter sink too...
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
I had 5 laptops come in for repair today 
. I should get the fan tomorrow if it is a nice day I'll work on this project and make the laptops wait a day, just got the stuff sitting finished so won't hurt for these to sit a bit.
. I should get the fan tomorrow if it is a nice day I'll work on this project and make the laptops wait a day, just got the stuff sitting finished so won't hurt for these to sit a bit.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Today is not so good outside so I guess I'll do some paying work. Just got the fan I ordered (post #71) is perfect and made well by the look of it. Going to get a second one maybe.
Tested PVC pipe for temp result not good.
Tested PVC pipe for temp result not good.
How did you test the PVC pipe, and how did it fail. The flue-curing chamber I'm planning, will use PVC pipe. The max temp of the chamber will be 165 degrees. HotBox may get higher but not using PVC in it.
I boiled a piece of pipe for an hour (212 degrees), then pounded it with a hammer - all OK. Standard PVC is only rated for 140 degrees, but I think that is for pressure. CPVC is rated for 180 degrees, but more $$$.
I boiled a piece of pipe for an hour (212 degrees), then pounded it with a hammer - all OK. Standard PVC is only rated for 140 degrees, but I think that is for pressure. CPVC is rated for 180 degrees, but more $$$.
AmaxB
Well-Known Member
Received some information from LeftyRighty in PDF he has done a bit of math working out needs for a box of 30 cubic feet he points out the need of 200 CFM fan out put. If 50 pounds of tobacco is placed in the chamber.
My box is larger and my fan has out put of 160 CFM so need a change. He also points out vent size and BTUs needed. Pretty cool and very good of him to share with me.
Thank You LeftyRighty ... Think I will make the vents am posting pic of changes am adding a fan will give me 320 CFM and I hope insure more than enough air flow (fans have built in dampers should they be needed).
I started with a $$$ amount in mind but now see to achieve my goal of a system that will do what I want and do it well the $$$ amount was not realistic so I'm going to do it and use good parts (not cheap substitutes).
Wife is being pretty good about it but I fear she will have my nuts before it is over
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My box is larger and my fan has out put of 160 CFM so need a change. He also points out vent size and BTUs needed. Pretty cool and very good of him to share with me.
Thank You LeftyRighty ... Think I will make the vents am posting pic of changes am adding a fan will give me 320 CFM and I hope insure more than enough air flow (fans have built in dampers should they be needed).
I started with a $$$ amount in mind but now see to achieve my goal of a system that will do what I want and do it well the $$$ amount was not realistic so I'm going to do it and use good parts (not cheap substitutes).
Wife is being pretty good about it but I fear she will have my nuts before it is over
.
Whoa! My guess of fan rate is just a guess right now. I still need to do static/velocity pressure analysis.
It's not the chamber capacity - it's the leaf density that determines flow rate. What it takes to push the air through the leaf. Also, I'm cramming 50# of leaf in a tight chamber, relatively dense - flow rate will different for a looser density of leaf.
My initial inclination is high cfm, with damber to restrict flow when the leaf density is lower, curing fewer leaves.
I'm growing about 140-160 plants. My guess of 50# of leaf is about the max I'll expect for a single priming, and it could be signicantly less.
Also, if you check some of the commercial barn references - they use static pressure loss of 0.10 to 0.30 inches of water across the the leaf, to guage air flow. I'm still trying to figure how to do this, or what it means, in a mini-chamber.
It's not the chamber capacity - it's the leaf density that determines flow rate. What it takes to push the air through the leaf. Also, I'm cramming 50# of leaf in a tight chamber, relatively dense - flow rate will different for a looser density of leaf.
My initial inclination is high cfm, with damber to restrict flow when the leaf density is lower, curing fewer leaves.
I'm growing about 140-160 plants. My guess of 50# of leaf is about the max I'll expect for a single priming, and it could be signicantly less.
Also, if you check some of the commercial barn references - they use static pressure loss of 0.10 to 0.30 inches of water across the the leaf, to guage air flow. I'm still trying to figure how to do this, or what it means, in a mini-chamber.
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