Utilize as much of the outer edge as possible and remove as much of the inner bit as you can.
If you want to flatten the vein, be sure the veining has had enough time to absorb enough moister. If you use something like a socket to localize the pressure you will limit damage to the lamina. (leaf inners) do it lightly in succession.
If you want to pluck out the vein, until you get better at it, roll the stick around some then back to better gauge at what point to pluck. After you pinch, you'll want to pull straight inline with the vein. You may need to use a finger or two to keep the lamina from tearing to much. .. keep two nails sharp or use a scissor to sever the vein. .. you'll sever/pluck at the point where the vein sets on top of the bunch just before it gets rolled under.
After the wrapper is on, you will get the vein to bury itself into the bunch if the bunch is soft enough by pressing/rolling itself between the chaveta knife and the board. .. only do this in the same direction as wrapper application.
Over booking the leaf will create burn issues. .. any time leaves lay flat against themselves in a finished stick defines booking is how to look at it.
Limiting overlap in the wrapper and binder.
These types of wrapper leaves are challenging when burned earlier.
There's a way to get air pockets between the binder and wrapper by, when binding, binding in a manner where your bunching loosely and applying the binder in a way that the tautness really doesn't come into play until the last bit by refraining from tugging on the binder and turning the bunch round only.
If your using a mold, the binding to ring gauge is larger then typical for the mold size. Your almost stuffing the bound bunch in the mold. After pressing, what happens is that the mold forces the bound bunch, creating wrinkles along the doll (molded bound bunch) length wise. .. this will work in paper molding as well.
