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New from Texas - Need a grow plan

peterd

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continuing on from the above post update the potatoes are doing great

Potatoes.jpg

You can see from the flowers that over the untold years of breeding the potato has become highly in-bred, same with the tomatoes. There is breeding work making out-crossing tomatoes that has increased flower size, restored flower coloring and pistil stigmas that extend outward and beyond the stamens of the flower allowing for out-crossing. I have not read news on the latest but the current works was to breed the self-incompatible gene into the tomato plants so they have to out-cross or die, with the goal of bringing rapid genetic mixing and enhancement to tomatoes to help fight of the new waves of diseases that will pretty much decimate all the existing heirloom and tomato breeds.

Of to the side you can see the Moringa trees I got from Mexico, here is a more recent photo of some of the seed planting clusters I put along the back fence.

Moringa.jpg

And here is some of my mixed row plantings, I have sweet potatoes, cow peas and some potatoes coming up in these rows.

BEyePots.jpg

Before I forget I did have some watermelon seeds. I wasn't planning on growing watermelon, but for some reason must have gotten one packet. They are not exciting, they are just as tiny and poor performing as Hales Worst Muskmelon seeds are performing. However, Joseph Lofthouse has provided a photograph side by side of his landrace watermelon project (explosive growth) side by side planted with retail store named varieties of watermelons. Joseph grows everything subsistence style, all he provides is irrigation if needed, there are zero fertilizer inputs, zero pest spraying, etc. The whole goal of landrace development is to re-establish plants that actually sent roots down deep to gain access to nutrients and the water table, that activate and use their genetics to co-exist with pests, etc. rather than plants that have genetically self-selected to put down shallow roots to pick up chemical synthetic fertilizer inputs, who don't need to worry about pest weakness in their genetics due to being bathed in chemical pesticides, and are in general selected by the growers for long storage life (removes taste, aroma).

Commercial Watermelon Seeds on the Left.
Lofthouse landrace Watermelon on the Right.
Same planting field, same planting day. Same growing conditions.
LandraceWatermelon.jpg

I am having fun with the fruit trees, all are growing out and I am getting to play with the plasticity of life especially in the early months where the stems are pliable and easily trained. Normally I set an extremely low scaffold in a four point east/west/north/south orientation but with this one apple all I had to work with for now was the three branches. I could do three points and wait for some of the excessive growth on the bud/stem location to possibly branch out and do a fourth, but I am going to experiment and just do a three-point scaffold and compare the final fruit production to the four-point apple trees. Not terribly scientific as they are all different varieties.

ThreeScaffold.jpg

You can see a little foot action for scale and ties into the Lofthouse landrace Watermelon photo above. I garden like this all the time now, I have no more mud, and unlike the nay-sayers I don't have explosions of fire ants, in fact I have less fire ants and I don't like how modern plastic made shoes allow people to grow interesting and exotic forms of fungi under their nails :p

Speaking of natural fungi... well I don't have a good segue into bacterium so I'll just post a photo of kraut making day. I'll save the readers seeing progression, instead here is a five gallon crock with the first barrier layer of outer cabbage leaves, it was then topped with a secondary barrier and then weights and a towel tied around to keep any insects away until its done with the various lactobacillus species making more nutrients available in the cabbage.

Kraut.jpg

The morning glory out front I have utterly neglected, even though small they are already flowering.

MornGlor.jpg

The growing totes are doing excellent. If you recall all they have in them is a lasagna layer of woodchips, then lawn clippings, and the repeat woodchips and lawn clippings.

Tote1.jpg

You can see I am getting rid of some brassica off cuts.

Tote2.jpg

Finally some tobacco shots. Tobacco plants are extremely shallow rooting and the woodchips were laid on the ground a foot deep at the end of last year.

Tob1.jpg

Hand for scale.

Tob2.jpg

And its not just the plants growing big, here is a jumping spider, the largest I have seen so far in the garden since converting to woodchips.

Jump2.jpg

That is a close up, so here is a better to scale photo.

Jump1.jpg

Still small but a lot larger than any jumping spider I have seen to date. No photos but I also have a lot of wasp nests, I am 100% growing wasps while every other house in this estate is spraying poisons on them to kill them instantly. Wasps are my garden friend and do a good job taking out caterpillars naturally.
 

skychaser

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NE Washington
Not sure what catalog you got from Baker Creek. I've never seen that one before. The one I get is an inch thick, and it only contains about half of what they sell. I got mine in early December. To see everything they sell you must look on line.

I buy only one thing from Johnny's Seed now days. It's a hybrid production tomato I grow every year that does fantastic in this climate. And they are the only one who ever has it. Otherwise I would probably go elsewhere. I buy the seed in bulk and usually get enough for 2-3 years at a time because their prices are so high that bulk rate is the only way it is even close to being economical. Their shipping rates are at the high end too. And most of what they sell now are hybrids of some kind. Which are no good for saving your own seed.

I get a lot of the seed I buy from Tomato Growers. They have a wide selection of seed and not just tomatoes. Lots of peppers and other vegetables too, which aren't all hybrids. I've never been disappointed with anything I got from them. Urban Farmer is another good source for seed too.

There are only a few heirloom tomatoes I grow that are what I consider even close to being a high production tomato. Verticillium Wilt is very common here and the worst disease that affects tomatoes. Growing resistant varieties is a must. It was a real problem for me with most heirlooms. But by saving my own seed from plants that weren't affected by it, I slowly developed localized strains that are resistant. I hardly ever loose a plant to Verticillium now. Not even one last year. I got a hybrid from Johnny's Seed several years ago called Valley Girl that was said to be very resistant to Verticillium and Fasarium wilt. Every last plant died 2/3rds through the season. And I had a whole section of them. Another reason why Johnny's Seed fell from favor to me.
 

peterd

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Texas
@skychaser here is what they sent me:

Baker.jpg

I gleaned from the guy who used to work for HOSS Tools that it is common in the catalog industry that they send late catalogs to a small segment of customers as a marketing information gathering exercise. They will track your online website orders against the catalog send date to determine if the number of people that don't get a catalog on time will order from the website instead. Most companies are trying today to eliminate printed catalogs and move most of the customers to website browsing and ordering only as it is a significant expense to them to print and mail catalogs.

I am not growing any tomato from the seed industry this year. I am only growing a wild tomato, cousin to the domesticated tomato as they have had all the pressures of surviving in the wild. Most of the wild tomatoes are a lot smaller fruit but a lot greater quantity of fruit. My current wild tomato comes from Florida, but if it actually does good with full neglect from me I will try to track down the wild tomato that comes from northern Mexico as it has larger fruit than the one from Florida.
 

peterd

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Texas
@Homegrowngoodnes
Yes that does sound like the one I got. I do not trellis it no. The seeds I got were very late to germinate, in that they needed weeks on a very warm seedling mat to show germination signs and then after germination grew very slowly taking weeks to push out the first leaves. I don't know if this is heat survival mechanism or I just got a dud packet of seeds but we will see. I don't give them any special treatment beyond neglect as I want to see how tough they are. I still have seed in reserve in case I really push them past the edge with utter neglect and will give them a grow out on the ground level instead of being 3 feet separated from the ground.

With todays weather going to 97 we are in the middle of another week long bought of heatwave days and the area is still in extreme drought. I have not watered or fertilized anything to this day as I am pushing this method to see how far it can go into Texas summers and if it can actually make it through Texas summers without any additional supplemental watering.

With the tobacco, I thought I had mentioned it before, if not, with the extreme winds earlier I had many plants go horizontal and a three were pulled partially out of the ground, all in the Herzegovina Flor rows. Two I replanted and one I left horizontal as a test. I swear I took photos but cannot find them, but two days after replanting the two replants went through extreme transplant shock. If you saw dried wrinkled leaves flat on the ground you would swear they were already beyond gone. The third was left to flop around in the winds and flop around it did. Thinking it might tear itself to pieces I put three landscaping staples along the stem where it was horizontal from the ground emergence to the point the stem bent and started growing upwards again.

Here is one of the replants, as you can see they have made it through the ghastly is it dead stage but the growth stage has been greatly retarded. Photo is aFter 1pm where the day temperatures have just about about pegged at their peak.

herzreplant.jpg

As a comparison here is the landscape stapled horizontal plant today to show where all three might be if I stapled all three and did no replanting. Wind is still flopping the leaves around but the base is not longer rolling around on the ground.

herzstaple.jpg

It was too hot to count row numbers, I just wanted to get out of the sun, but I believe these are the Cherry Red rows.

cherry.jpg

The only tobacco that show signs of lighter more yellow leaf coloration are the Virginia Brights, VB growers can chime in if this looks normal, all the VBs in all the rows share the same coloration so I'm analyzing it currently as a varietal phenotype.

bright1.jpg

The corn is at the stage that it is just starting to push out the tassels.

corntassles.jpg

Taking a break from bread, I got off my duff and for the first time in decades baked a cake. My recipe has varied a lot from the 1934 variation as I have incorporated the lightest fluffy sponge method replacing the majority of heavier wheat flour with corn flour and increasing the eggs to get more volume of stiff peaks of air whipped whites before folding. I also changed the filling to be a lot more decadent.

This is a ginger fluff sponge with vanilla-coffee cream.

fluff.jpg
 

peterd

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Texas
Forgot to add the Africa Yam, with the sun at its zenith, I got a lot of glare but you can see this sprout has climbed all the way up the 8 foot long wood beam and has already trained off onto the fence. It is only now just starting to push out leaves, these are tiny versions of the true yam leaf. Hopefully in another week or two I can get some full size leaf photos to share. It is giving the beans from Jack and the Bean Stalk a run for its money.


yamsprout.jpg
 

peterd

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I am getting old, I forgot to post this months ago, this is the time map breaking down the growing season here so you can see what I am up against with trying to get a no-water or low-water garden method working.

Time Spent in Various Temperature Bands and the Growing Season.png

Where I am at today is here:

Screenshot 2022-05-15 153614.jpg

The amount of solar energy that will be hitting the plants and the ground throughout the year:

Growing Degree Days.png

Humidity levels during the growing seasons:

Humidity Comfort Levels.png
 

BrotherJ

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Mar 27, 2022
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Georgia, US
Mulch is the answer. The plants can take a lot of sun if their roots are moist. I've seen an Arizona garden that basically never had to be watered. The gardener scraped a bowl several inches deep out of the hard soil, drilled holes every six inches or so for drainage, added lots of good, loamy compost, and then topped it off with about 10 inches of wood chips. Only if there was a whole month without rain did the garden need to be watered at all. If the soil holds moisture well, is kept cool, and convection is limited, evaporation almost disappears, even in terribly hot conditions. The only problem with this method is the fact that you have to dig through 10 inches of wood chips in order to plant. You want to keep the wood chips thin around the base of the plant so there isn't too much moisture held against the body of the plant above ground. The mulch is to protect the soil, not the plant directly. It's a bit of trouble, but you really can make a low-water to no-water garden in hot, arid regions, even with bad soil.
 

peterd

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Texas
I'm lagging behind but it's great to see some blossoms. Which variety?

I loaded up my planting tracker chart to make sure I got the correct red when responding so I might as well just take a screenshot as well and put it in the post:

1654560337117.png

Two of the varieties of tobacco I planted this year have already reached the flowering stalks stage, but only one is shown above in the earlier post in a photograph--the Cherry Red variety. Both Cherry Red and Herzogovina flor have outperformed all the other varieties in this anecdotal first grow since building the new garden late last year. Both varieties are already full height and pushing out flowering stalks. The Cherry Red is that much further along as compared to Herzogovina flor in that its flower stalks are reaching the petals stage. I don't know how Cherry Red compares to Virginia Bright in its final smokable form, but in variety growth habit it has far surpassed the Virginia Bright rows which all seemed to stick around longer at the beginning at the smaller growth stages (expecting me to feed it or something?).

There are many bagging candidates in the Cherry Red rows but I just bagged the first to flower. The Herzogovina flor rows were the earlier photos of lodged tobacco plants from the almost constant 30+ mph winds we seemed to have this Spring. The one I bagged was the one I did not dig up and replant after lodging and instead used the garden staples on and not being growth interrupted it was the first to flowering stage so got bagged as well.

When I look at where I am at today, I reflect back on the following:
  1. My geographical area has been in a Severe Drought state this entire time.
  2. I have not watered at all.
  3. I have not fertilized at all.
  4. I have not weeded at all.
Under these growing conditions I have clearly seen which varieties as a group of rows put down roots and got down to business and went through all the growth stages without any inputs from myself as well as those that didn't like to grow under the same conditions. I will switch up all of the growing locations next time such that the same varieties are not grown within the same rows twice. That should help to reinforce or weaken my first round of anecdotal observations as to variety vigor in a newly established deep mulch woodchip garden.

One thing was also clear this year, in the front yard on the other side of the morning glories the large Vitex my neighbor planted close to the property line has leafed in and shaded the front side garden to a greater amount than I envisioned. It wasn't only the tobacco planted there growing poorly, but also the ornamental garden perennials caught within its shade canopy all performed poorly compared to the same perennials growing outside the shade canopy. I won't be using that front yard section in future tobacco grows, and instead will focus on the back yard garden space only.
 
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