Pasi's Grow Log 2026

Pasiasiainen

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2025
Messages
102
Points
63
Location
Finland
BTW: the directions for mine suggested using distilled white vinegar to clean it. Perhaps that could help with the scaling from having minerals in your water?
It’s actually quite easy to wipe the limescale off the aluminum-lined walls with just a damp cloth.

I’m more concerned that if it’s ending up on the walls, it’s probably ending up on the leaves as well. Whether that has any noticeable effect on leaf quality, I really don’t know.
 

StoneCarver

Bureau for Paranormal Research and Defense
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Aug 26, 2025
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298
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93
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Winston-Salem,NC
and fill itself whenever needed.
Now if I could have my set up do that, it really would be "set it and forget it."
I’m more concerned that if it’s ending up on the walls, it’s probably ending up on the leaves as well.
Am I understanding you correctly, that you are seeing mineral build up on interior walls of your kiln?
 

Pasiasiainen

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2025
Messages
102
Points
63
Location
Finland
Am I understanding you correctly, that you are seeing mineral build up on interior walls of your kiln?
Yep, that’s the case. But I can use this earlier mentioned tapwater-diluted demineralized water (!) to prevent this from happening.
 

Pasiasiainen

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2025
Messages
102
Points
63
Location
Finland
Update from Finland.

Things are advancing... OK-ish. I've done a little priming, mostly lugs with some better-quality volado leaves. Good material to test my Boiler Room Curing Tent.

Curing-tent-050826.jpg Curing-tent-2-050826.jpg

I'm not using any of my Inkbirds in the curing tent, just timers to run the humidifier and the fan. It took a couple of days to find the right on/off cycle for the humidifier to keep the humidity between 70–75% RH. My fan is one of my recycling-center finds, and I don't know if it's happy running 24/7, so I put it on a timer: 5 hours on, then a 30-minute cooldown.

I keep wondering if I started priming my Little Dutch too early, even though it's already been five weeks since topping. I remember reading somewhere here that Little Dutch doesn't show much yellowing before it's mature, so I took my chances and started priming when I noticed a slight change in leaf color.

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Speaking of maturing, my Piloto Cubano isn't showing any signs of maturing three weeks after topping, not even the lugs. Right next to it is Dominican Olor, topped on the same day, and I've already started priming that as it shows clear signs of maturing.

Should Piloto Cubano show the typical signs (such as yellowing leaf tips), or is it more like Little Dutch, with only very subtle changes?

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CT Shade is kind of a sad story. I won't be getting any ligero from it, as the top leaves will be all damaged by the shade netting. Some of the seco leaves also have very ragged edges and holes (in the picture below), but the leaves feel thin and silky, so hopefully I'll still get some usable wrappers out of this grow. Lesson learned: build a very tall structure for CT Shade, or grow a smaller variety. It completely surprised me that CT Shade would grow this tall in Finland.

CTShade-Seco.jpg

Corojo 99 ended up growing quite nicely (by my standards), although it has suffered some damage from falling pine cones.

Corojo99-050826.jpg

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When hiking through my vast tobacco fields, it's always nice to meet some of the other residents. This time, a green rose chafer (Cetonia aurata) was hanging around on my compost bin cover, and the ants were surprised by the visitor.

Cetonia aurata.jpg
 
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