Whats wrong with my seedlings [pics]

[Aaron]

I wouldn't be too worried about a pH of 7. My soil here is at 8 and things still seem to grow ok. I'm not saying a high pH won't have an affect of some sort just that I'm growing in a higher level without major problems that I can tell.

A tablespoon of Epsom per cup sure sounds like a lot, but would imagine a good portion of that has leached out with the watering if your cups are draining well and getting watered daily.

 

[FALaholic]

A tablespoon of Epsom per cup sure sounds like a lot, but would imagine a good portion of that has leached out with the watering if your cups are draining well and getting watered daily.

The Skoal seeding trays get watered daily.
My SOLO cups were thoroughly watered twice; till water drained out the bottom. Since then, enough water to wet 1" of the top soil. My SOLO cups received one tablespoon of Epsom Acidfier, as per instructions.
All my other plants are doing well, not as big as I would imagine at its height vs time.

 

[Fisherman]

Epsoma Acidifier.............. maybe is what he is talking about Mr Aaron..

http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/pdf/products/Esp_Soil_acidif.pdf

What is making this stuff work is the sulpher and not epsom salts

Sulfer or sulpher is an additive in which bacteria in the ground feed on and make sulferic acid byproduct. I am pretty sure I remember right on that but a quick google on the subject whould turn up how sulfer aditives actually lower the ph. Probably would work best in a soil inoculated with bacteria as compared to potting mix????

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/080818.html

Excerts fropm above link:

If dramatic shifts such as a pH 6.5 to 4.5 for blueberries are needed, than elemental sulfur is a better choice. It has more acidifying capability than the other products and lasts for years. However it reacts slowly and may take several months. Soil bacteria convert the sulfur to sulfuric acid. Since it is a biological process it is slower than a chemical reaction. The process occurs when the bacteria are most active in moist warm soil and are not active in the winter. Spring application and incorporation work best. Once plants are planted it's difficult to add much sulfur. Prepare beds in advance; ideally the season before planting.

 

[FALaholic]

Thank you Fish. It is my understanding that I should be seeing a change in pH around 2 weeks, but I still have yet to see any change.
I'm not worrying about it anymore, as my other plants are doing well.

 

[Knucklehead]

You know what, let me ask you.
My Burleys are the only ones that look stunted. My current Burleys that are in their own SOLO cups are about the same size as the ones in my Skoal seedling tray. The only difference is that they aren't yellow. They have been outside for at least a month. Like everyone says, once transplanted they will take off, has not happened yet with me. I will say, I have grown from seedlings in doors, and once place outside they were growing almost an 1/2" a day.

My Samsun and Havana took off in the seedling tray and my Virginia started slow. Now all but my Burleys are taking off. Yet, they are not taking off like others have mentioned.

I guess the only thing that I can say about all this is, "if they are doing ok, don't bother them".

Something is wrong if your "good" plants are the size of the ones in the Skoal can. They should be at least 6" tall, full and robust, with many leaves. As a matter of fact they should have been getting so large that you needed to trim the leaves to keep from crowding your other seedlings.

The main problem is your one inch soil depth. The tap root needs to grow straight down or it will curl up and cause what is called spiral root. You should be bottom watering them instead of just wetting the top, this will encourage the root to grow downwards searching for water. But you need soil space to allow this. Your plants are stunted. They should be ready for the field by now.

Start here and read each thread: http://wholeleaftobaccollc.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?40-Starting-tobacco-seeds

Then these : http://wholeleaftobaccollc.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?41-Setting-Transplanting

 

[FALaholic]

Perhaps there is a bit of misunderstanding in this thread.

Here are my current plants, ones that I'm growing out:

Havana up front. Seeding tray on the left. Burleys should be in the center:


Samsun up front:


From seed to present. I believe that it has been 2 months.

 

[FALaholic]

I won't say that my plats are 6", my best (probably Samsun) is maybe 3".
My Burley on the other hand are maybe an inch. All started around the same time, Burley maybe a week behind the Samsun and Havana.

 

[Knucklehead]

I can't see it being the root. My actual seeding tray, is roughly 1" of soil depth. It is nothing more than a 1' long aluminium food tray. Everything in there is on the same soil and water cycle. Even the Burleys that are still in there are showing yellowing.

Yeah, this is the post that threw me off. I thought you were saying soil depth was 1" for all your plants. They look healthy, but they still look small for 2 months old. Are they in full sun all day? Is there a way to water the container the cups are in and let the water with fertilizer wick up from the bottom? They even look like they are getting plenty of light because they are not tall and leggy like they are reaching up for light. How long has it been since you moved them from the starter tray to the Solo cups? If it hasn't been long, they may still be putting roots down before they start growing topside. That's all I can think of as to why they are small.

 

[FALaholic]

Many thanks Knuckle. I want to say that it has been a month that they have been outside, in full sun, but it seems like it was just last week that I placed them outside. I would rather lean on the side of caution and say that they have been outside for about 2 weeks.
Wicking from the bottom up just doesn't work. What I did was when I transplanted them. I added 1 tablespoon of Epsoms Soil Acidfier, and one teaspoon of Osmocoat 19-6-12 fertilizer, about 2" below the surface. Made my top layer of 2" soil and punched my center hole with my finger. Made my transplant, packed soil around the stem, and thoroughly watered the SOLO cups, to the point where water drained out the bottom. From there on, I only watered when the top soil became dry. I would add enough water to flood the cup for 1/2 inch, and that was it. I had to do this, as when I placed them outside, they began to wilt when the top soil became dry. Every so often I would catch a seedling wilting. I would add the 1/2" of water, place it in the shade, and in less than an hour they were perking right back up.
I've tested the soil's moisture below the surface, and below 1.5" the soil is wet, not moist. So I'm trying to give it only enough water to keep from wilting.

 

[Knucklehead]

They look healthy, I guess they just need more time. Will you have a patch or are you going to container grow?

 

[workhorse_01]

Don't forget that wilting is a natural process for tobacco! If the soil is moist and they wilt they're ok. It's kinda like stretching before a race. They look a little too moist. If they're hardened off to full sun then leave them outside and see how they do without watering one day. They will wilt but if the soil has good moisture leave them.

 

[FALaholic]

They look healthy, I guess they just need more time. Will you have a patch or are you going to container grow?

Container grow, but now I'm thinking of taking a small porting of the yard and make a patch. Started off with 30, ended up with 40, now looking at going up to 50.

 

[FALaholic]

Don't forget that wilting is a natural process for tobacco! If the soil is moist and they wilt they're ok. It's kinda like stretching before a race. They look a little too moist. If they're hardened off to full sun then leave them outside and see how they do without watering one day. They will wilt but if the soil has good moisture leave them.

Can't see that with 1" seedlings.
Tried that, it died. Caught one yesterday. Brought it in, watered it, in 1 hour back to normal. If I didn't do that, I'm sure I would have lost it.
Wilting, yes I can see that, but with more mature plants.

 

[Aaron]

Container grow, but now I'm thinking of taking a small porting of the yard and make a patch. Started off with 30, ended up with 40, now looking at going up to 50.

Just think, next year you'll be adding another zero to the end of those numbers.

 

[FALaholic]

Just think, next year you'll be adding another zero to the end of those numbers.

...zip it. Not another word .