Wombat's 2026 Grow Log

Wombat_smokes

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On Sunday, the Shargo pots were dry on the surface. I moistened them with my spray bottle and let them be. I expect a similar outcome as the Bursa - water & time to prove if the seeds died. However, I decided to replant them this morning. The germination chamber had plenty of green sprouts. I also planted some of these green sprouts in the backup tray.

Little Dutch and Yellow Pryor are now planted in their pots with a dome over them to reduce surface drying.

I also replanted some under performing seedlings: Bursa, Prilep & One Sucker. I didn't take before/after photos until I got to the One Sucker.
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Wombat_smokes

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Tofta, Frog Eye Orinoco, Anatolian, and Herzegovina Flor are all in the germination chamber.1003.jpg
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All my other seedlings are doing great. The Shargo seeds did not dry out, but needed some extra time to show their greens. Probably has something to do with the temperature change. My germination chamber is 80°F, but the shelves are averaging 60-65°F.

I'm also seeing some fuzzy white patches. I've been debating if it's mineral seep from my "lquid rock" tap water, but it's most likely mold. To ensure sufficient soil moisture, I over watered. The plan was high water availability until the 1st leaves grew out, then let water be "limited". After all, peat moss, perlite & vermiculite are used in seedling mix for their water retention properties.

I mixed a mild solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide (1 part H2O2 : 4 parts H2O) and misted half of my One Sucker to test. I don't need to lose my plants to rot before I have a chance to loose my cured leaf to mold. At the same time, I'll knock down the green algae that has also started to grow.

I have also started to give the tomatoes "haircuts" as practice for the tobacco.
 

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Wombat_smokes

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Tofta, Herzegovina Flor & Anatolian sprouts are planted. Frog Eye Orinoco needs some extra time to let the roots grow out some more - maybe a day or two. I couldn't bear to throw out the extra seeds, so I made backup trays of Herzegovina and Anatolian in case the extra cells in the 72 cell seed tray are runts.

Everyone else is doing wonderful. The Yellow Pryor & Little Dutch seem stunted, but they are only 1 week old.
 

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Wombat_smokes

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I started Malatya, Ege, Sweet Peppers, and my 2nd type of heirloom tomatoes on Wednesday morning (a bit impatient).

This morning, I transplanted my spare seedlings into empty and stunted pots. This included: Little Dutch, Shargo, Åhus, Trabzon #2, and Yellow Pryor. Yellow Pryor has a slim margin as it produced the fewest extra sprouts. I have exactly 16 plants and planned on 15 plants in the feild. Otherwise, everyone is doing well.
 

Wombat_smokes

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Maltya and Ege sprouts are now transplanted. I made 1 tray of backup sprouts for ege, but left the extra Malatya seeds in the germination chamber due to a lack of fully germinated seds.

Today was also my first "haircut" day. I clipped 50% - 75% of all leaves that were crowding other plants. My pictures are of the One Sucker extras. I gave haircuts to my backup trays since the individual pots aren't covering each other, yet. Plants trimmed: Prilep, Bursa, One Sucker, Trabzon #2, & Åhus.

I gave everyone a "bubble bath" with a 1:1 mix of hydrogen peroxide and water to control fungus gnats, green algae and the white mold I've been seeing. I used the same peroxide mix to disinfect my shears between plants. The only damage I've caused with the peroxide is water spots.
 

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Wombat_smokes

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This morning I started Small Stalk Black Mammoth, Semois, Yaladag, and Düzce. I reseeded Malatya. Malatya's germination was good, but I'm concerned there may be a large quantity of under performers.

Herzegovina Flor and Anatolian have similar low performance, but I have good looking seedlings in my backup trays. Tofta is doing well, but my backup tray had a dry spot and the sprouts in that area died.
 

Wombat_smokes

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Düzce, Yaladag, and Malatya are all in their pots with some backups. The Semois and Small Stalk Black Mammoth need another day or two before transplanting.

Everyone over 3 weeks old got a hair cut. Some their first, others their second.

There is one Bursa with some crinckled leaves, but I'm not too worried about it. My "strong lighting" seems to be doing what I want, keeping growth compact - the One Sucker is amazingly strong and short for the time being. I'm going to risk the cool weather and transplanting some Åhus next week & see how it handles the light freezes (38-34°F).
 

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Wombat_smokes

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Small Stalk Black Mammoth and Semois sprouts are transplanted with backups. I have to admit, waiting for the cotyledons to emerge is easier to transplant and lets one see progress better. It also alleviates the anxiety of success. 18 varieties started and 2 more left: Bitlis and Trabzon.

Looking at the extended weather forecast, this week will be the "Easter Blizzard." It happens every year in the inner mountain Rockies (Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah). 2 weeks before/after Easter, there is a sudden drop in temperature and brings precipitation - snow or rain. My Åhus transplants next week should fair well and be on target for a late May harvest, in theory.
 

Wombat_smokes

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Bitlis & Trabzon sprouts are in their pots. My tobacco seeding is complete..... for now. I'll start seeds for a 2nd crop of Åhus in a few weeks.

I'll be using the majority of this month to harden off plants and finish garden prep. My only worry now is "day length". My lights provide 12.5 hours of light, but the timer is set to fit my work schedule - 2:30 am to 3 pm. I'm concerned that the transition might cause early blooming. Should I transition the photoperiod to match "daylight hours" (sun up to sun down) or just not worry?

I know previous research cited says tobacco responds to night length for maturity, but I'm still worried about growing a seed crop and getting no usable leaf. While seeds and and minimal leaf to learn the curing process are a win, I still want a minimum of 2 kg of finished leaf (approximately 10% of all leaf grown in theory)
 

WillQuantrill

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Bitlis & Trabzon sprouts are in their pots. My tobacco seeding is complete..... for now. I'll start seeds for a 2nd crop of Åhus in a few weeks.

I'll be using the majority of this month to harden off plants and finish garden prep. My only worry now is "day length". My lights provide 12.5 hours of light, but the timer is set to fit my work schedule - 2:30 am to 3 pm. I'm concerned that the transition might cause early blooming. Should I transition the photoperiod to match "daylight hours" (sun up to sun down) or just not worry?

I know previous research cited says tobacco responds to night length for maturity, but I'm still worried about growing a seed crop and getting no usable leaf. While seeds and and minimal leaf to learn the curing process are a win, I still want a minimum of 2 kg of finished leaf (approximately 10% of all leaf grown in theory)
Since you already have a timer programmed I dont see any downside to shifting the ON interval. I set mine to sun up time and sun down time to synchronize with my projected transplant date from the day I turn the lights on. Does it make any significant measureable difference? Dunno. But my plants usually only take a couple days to a week to acclimate outside.
 

Wombat_smokes

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Yesterday, everyone got some sun and a drink of fertilizer - Miracle grow 18N-18P-21K 1/2 tsp in 0.5 gallons (~2 L) of water.
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This morning, everyone over 4 weeks got a haircut. Some had their first; others, their third.
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Many have large and healthy leaves for their current age and size.

Little Dutch 5 weeks
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Åhus 6 weeks

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I might also have some flower buds forming
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Bursa 6 weeks
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And while I know most of what gets trimmed for a "haircut" are "trash" bed leaves, I can't help but wonder if Åhus, with its short stature and early maturity, is an exception. Either way, I have a long enough growing season to get 2 or 3 crops of Åhus. I will also push my luck with other varieties.

My biggest problem, I'm running out of space for my normal veggies and I have no irrigation water until May. In Utah, esp. Salt Lake County and several surrounding counties, we have untreated (secodary) irrigation water for lawns and gardens provided as a utility by the city. My city provides irrigation water May - October. Next year, I will start seeds in March so I won't be so short on water after transplanting maturity is reached.

Furthermore, there is a cold front on its way for late next week that will bring cold night time temperatures that are closer to average. Once that front moves on, we'll be back to above average temperature for the month. This is something that has started to happen over the past few years. I'm not going to call it Easter Blizzard part 2, but rather a normal Utah weather thing. Nonetheless, I plan on transplanting my excess Åhus and One Sucker in some of my marginal areas that are easily watered by hand. If the light freeze kills, then so be it. I'm only planting what I have to throw away. I need the space.
 
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