Tracking the Details
Without admitting to having poor memory, I'll just say that I expend some effort to make sure that I know which variety is which. If they get mixed up at any point along the way, then seed that they may produce is always a matter of uncertainty.
As mentioned before, I germinate seed in plastic 8 ounce Ball freezer jars. Both the lid and the jar are labeled. Each jar is partly filled with my germination soil mix. I also mark Popsicle sticks with the variety name--one stick for each individual 4-cell tray, which will always contain a single variety. The sticks are marked both front and back, and are set aside until the trays are set up.
Each jar is carried, only one jar at a time, to a separate location (a different counter), for adding seed. I add about 1/4 cup of water to the soil, lightly sprinkle the seed, then lightly mist the surface with water. The lid is closed, and remains closed until after germination. I don't add additional water. After all the jars are sowed, they are assembled onto a cookie sheet, placed on a seedling heat mat, and ignored for 4 days. Although they will germinate just fine in the dark, mine are place on a shelf that receives low-angle sun for a short time each day.
After 4 to 7 days, nearly all seed that is viable will have germinated. For my relatively small number of plants desired for each variety (between 4 and 22, depending on the variety and purpose), I plan for 4 more plants than I will need. Although this is a small safety margin in some cases (grow 20 seedlings to insure 16 good plants), it usually works out.
Soil (same mix as for germinating) is added to 48-cell 1020 tray inserts. The soil is not pressed into the cells, but just poured on, then scraped level, which leaves it loose. Each of my trays is actually 3 trays nested into one another. On the bottom is a lattice tray, for ease in handling the trays. Into that, I place a solid 1020 tray (which will hold water). Into the solid tray, I place a 1020 tray with drainage holes. Then the 48-cell insert goes on top.
The lower, solid tray holds about 1-1/2 quarts of water (below the nested tray with holes), which I pour in while a corner insert tray is removed. Initially, to this I add another 3/4 quart of water, which will be completely soaked up by the loose soil mix.
When a variety of seed has germinated, I lightly dimple each cell that it will occupy, which makes it easier to free a tiny seedling from the forceps. Using my bayonet forceps (any old tweezers will do), I dig out a single germinated seed--often at a small cotyledon stage--and place one per cell. If several tiny seedlings stick together, I've found it less work to just transfer the small clump to the cell, then cull the weakest after a week or so. Each 4-cell tray gets its respective Popsicle stick label.
Each newly transplanted seedling gets a spritz of water, to settle it in. Then a dome is placed over the tray. Since I don't have enough domes, I alternatively use a cover of plastic wrap on some trays.
The trays are placed onto shelves at window level in my enclosed back porch, where they receive direct sun (low angle at this time of year) for part of each day. If it's too warm or too hot, a sheet of Agribon-AG15 can be placed over a tray. The sunlight usually prevents mold, but I watch carefully, and open the cover if needed.
When the time comes to transplant outside, each individual 4-cell tray has its own Popsicle stick label, which goes with it to the garden.
As of today, nearly all varieties are now in their individual cells, where they will live for the next 6 to 8 weeks. Chillardbee's funky white wonder was just sowed yesterday, and the Danneman Bahia (Mata Fina) has not germinated, and probably won't.
Bob