They're looking good DG.
That looks like the flue-cure we know and love. Great work.
.
Bob
The yellowed leaf that you remove will be consuming its sugar while it waits to go back in.Thank you. Getting airflow sorted and more attention to the yellowing phase should get the next run right where i want to be. with my hanging system I am thinking of removing individual sticks from the kiln as they fully yellow to allow the others to catch up. This should be no more than 12-14 hrs so they are all in the same state for wilting.
The yellowed leaf that you remove will be consuming its sugar while it waits to go back in.
Bob
I am already ahead of the curve on that idea. It would be a huge kiln though. Ever seen the carpet rolls at Lowes? Just set it to advance the strung leaves a foot or so every so oftenIWe need to get Amax started on a rotisserie.
Light is used by chlorophyll to power the production of sugar. After yellowing, the chlorophyll is gone. In yellow leaf, rather than being light dependent, sugar consumption by the cell is temperature dependent: faster at higher temp, up to about 104ºF.So at full yellow the leaf is still trying to live? Got it. If the leaf were shielded from light the process would be slower then ?m Would leaving the leaf in to yellow to long not have the same effect?
Been waiting for the answer BobLight is used by chlorophyll to power the production of sugar. After yellowing, the chlorophyll is gone. In yellow leaf, rather than being light dependent, sugar consumption by the cell is temperature dependent: faster at higher temp, up to about 104ºF.
The obvious solution is to start the process with similar leaf.
Bob
One of the goals of flue-curing is to maximize the sugar in the final product. So prolonged yellowing (like my 4 day yellowing) reduces the sugar. I have no idea by how much, but my leaf has been sweet. I think it would require a number of trials to get a feel for the impact of longer yellowing, or of holding yellowed leaf out of the kiln for a day or two. Even then, without lab analysis of the sugars, we're just going by taste....how does this leave the condition of the leaf?
One of the goals of flue-curing is to maximize the sugar in the final product. So prolonged yellowing (like my 4 day yellowing) reduces the sugar. I have no idea by how much, but my leaf has been sweet. I think it would require a number of trials to get a feel for the impact of longer yellowing, or of holding yellowed leaf out of the kiln for a day or two. Even then, without lab analysis of the sugars, we're just going by taste.
Bob
One of the goals of flue-curing is to maximize the sugar in the final product. So prolonged yellowing (like my 4 day yellowing) reduces the sugar. I have no idea by how much, but my leaf has been sweet. I think it would require a number of trials to get a feel for the impact of longer yellowing, or of holding yellowed leaf out of the kiln for a day or two. Even then, without lab analysis of the sugars, we're just going by taste.
Bob
I'm not sure that it makes a difference with the sweetness, but may be a clever way to synchronize the fast-yellowing leaf (go directly to flue-cure) with the slower-yellowing leaf (into flue-cure at the same time, but having been shed yellowed for a couple of days prior). As you know, we're all walking virgin territory when it comes to home flue-curing.
I put a small number of huge, upper Bolivia Criollo Black leaves (didn't want to waste too much) into the current batch of flue-cure, along with two other varieties, just to see what you get when you flue-cure the Bolivia. It had yellowed totally to a bright canary after 48 hours, while the VA Bright had only partially yellowed. I gave it another 24 hours, then cranked it into leaf wilt (120ºF) an hour ago. Who knows what will come out.
Bob
I'm not sure that it makes a difference with the sweetness, but may be a clever way to synchronize the fast-yellowing leaf (go directly to flue-cure) with the slower-yellowing leaf (into flue-cure at the same time, but having been shed yellowed for a couple of days prior). As you know, we're all walking virgin territory when it comes to home flue-curing.
I put a small number of huge, upper Bolivia Criollo Black leaves (didn't want to waste too much) into the current batch of flue-cure, along with two other varieties, just to see what you get when you flue-cure the Bolivia. It had yellowed totally to a bright canary after 48 hours, while the VA Bright had only partially yellowed. I gave it another 24 hours, then cranked it into leaf wilt (120ºF) an hour ago. Who knows what will come out.
Bob
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