FantomBadger's First Attempt at Tobacco

[deluxestogie]

You may wish to investigate the question of possible interaction or interference between your different biologicals.

Bob

 

[FantomBadger]

You may wish to investigate the question of possible interaction or interference between your different biologicals.

Bob

Good evening Sir,

I take you for a reader, so I’ll provide some links to studies I went through, in a lot of cases only read the abstract and discussion, in order for you or other members to read that might find it interesting.

Bt-kurstaki and B. bassiana used to together has been found to be synergistic and also protect against more pests. In theory, Bt stops feeding of the larva and causes it’s metabolism to crash, making the cuticle infection from Beauveria to work quicker.



Sayed, A.M.M. and Behle, R.W. (2017) "Evaluating a dual microbial agent biopesticide with Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki and Beauveria bassiana blastospores." Biocontrol Science and Technology, 27(4): 461–474. DOI: 10.1080/09583157.2017.1303662

Trichoderma and Beauveria work together, as found in a study by Batool et al. The combination killed 98% of Asian corn borer larvae vs 88% for Beauveria alone. No antagonistic or negative effects between the two were observed. Both colonised the plants well and coexisted without reducing each other's efficacy.

Batool, S. et al. (2020) "Synergistic Effect of Beauveria bassiana and Trichoderma asperellum to Induce Maize Defense against the Asian Corn Borer and Larval Immune Response." International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 21(21): 8215. DOI: 10.3390/ijms21218215

Trichoderma and Bacillus, what I intend to use for prevention of soil and leaf diseases, work together against bacterial wilt, but application should be directed at different zones. One applied to the soil, and the other as a foliar application. A follow up study found that they can interfere with each other slightly, if grown together in a lab dish, but at the very worst you might just have or the other taking over where they interfere. Planned for soil drench and foliar spray, not applied as a mix.

Zhou, Y. et al. (2021) "Synergistic Effect between Trichoderma virens and Bacillus velezensis on the Control of Tomato Bacterial Wilt Disease." Horticulturae, 7(11): 439. DOI: 10.3390/horticulturae7110439

Izquierdo-García, L.F. et al. (2024) "Synergistic interactions of Trichoderma virens and Bacillus velezensis to control tomato bacterial wilt." European Journal of Plant Pathology. DOI: 10.1007/s10658-024-02881-6

A study very relevant to what I am doing.
Aynalem et al. tested Beauveria, Metarhizium and Bt together. Applied as single products, pairs, and all three combined, against Tuta absoluta, the tomato leafminer. This is a big threat in my area for tobacco. Basically my whole insect stack in one experiment.
The combined treatments beat the individual products. So the stack should work, as long as each product is used in its own lane.

Aynalem, B. et al. (2022) "Biocontrol competence of Beauveria bassiana, Metarhizium anisopliae and Bacillus thuringiensis against tomato leaf miner, Tuta absoluta." Heliyon, 8(4)

One that I got wrong myself. I sprayed Beauveria and Metarhizium together earlier this week. Both work and interact the same and are competing with each. No harm done, apart from wasting the additional product. Will be applying as separate applications. Beauveria for the leaves and Metarhizium for the soil and stem base.

Notable interactions I have found. Double Nickel for leaf disease is a Bacillus that works by producing antifungal compounds. Beauveria and Metarhizium are fungi. Compatibility studies keep finding that Fungicides are the biggest risk to insect fungi in a spray program.

Shadmehri et al. found that every fungicide, at every concentration tested was incompatible with both Beauveria and Metarhizium. It significantly inhibits spore germination and growth. Tests were done with chemical fungicides, but an antifungal Bacillus will work in the same manner. Double Nickel and the insect fungi applied at least 5 days apart and never from the same tank. To be fair to the other side, one study did find a specific Bacillus strain compatible with Beauveria, so it is strain dependent. But without data on my exact strains, I’ll rather play it safe and not waste the money.

Shadmehri, A.D. et al. (2016) "Compatibility of entomopathogenic fungi Beauveria bassiana and Metarhizium anisopliae with some pesticides."

Khun, K.K. et al. (2021) "Compatibility of Metarhizium anisopliae and Beauveria bassiana with insecticides and fungicides used in macadamia production in Australia." Pest Management Science, 77(2): 709–718. DOI: 10.1002/ps.6069

I think to apply it simply and practically biologicals that attack the same target the same way compete. Biologicals that attack different targets in different places cooperate. Antifungals kills fungi, good and bad. And copper kills everything apply it alone.

It will be very important to log what was applied when and to make notes on actual performance.

Plants tonight after mixed Beauveria and Metarhizium application,

 

[FantomBadger]

Garden walk update, took photos of smaller and larger plants. Overall I am happy. They didn’t receive water today and no wilting occurred at 32°C.

Broadleaf bed 1,




Mixed plant bed, starting to see broader vs sharper leafs. The rounder leafs are burley and Eastern Cape Virginia and the sharper leafs are Old Zimbabwean Virginia. I am not 100% sure, I was away when they were transplanted so just need to map and table that bed.

The lush green plant in photo 6 is a Mapacho plant.

.

Broadleaf bed 2,




Note for next year, when doing beds, plant on mounds, not basins. They work nicely now, but when the rain comes it can cause water build up and fungal pressure. I am going to see if I can figure out a gutter system. At that stage plants will be bigger and I can make a plan. Pretty silly oversight.

Tomorrow broadleaf field 1 will get an application of 8g LAN and 1g MAP per plant. Will be sprinkled in the basin about 10-15cm from the stem in the evening and then watered deeply, but without runoff. Measuring jug watered at 1.5 liters per plant 1 to 30 and then start at plant 1 again with another 1.5 liters. Marcros for this application is 35kg N/hectare and 3.5kg P/hectare. This is the last phosphate that this plant will receive.

Broadleaf field 2 is getting their first post transplant fertiliser application. Will get 2g of soluble 6:1:3 diluted into 2 liters of water per plant. 8kg N/hectare, 1.3kg P/hectare and 4kg K/hectare.

 

[WillQuantrill]

Garden walk update, took photos of smaller and larger plants. Overall I am happy. They didn’t receive water today and no wilting occurred at 32°C.

Broadleaf bed 1,


View attachment 61123View attachment 61124View attachment 61125View attachment 61126View attachment 61127View attachment 61128

Mixed plant bed, starting to see broader vs sharper leafs. The rounder leafs are burley and Eastern Cape Virginia and the sharper leafs are Old Zimbabwean Virginia. I am not 100% sure, I was away when they were transplanted so just need to map and table that bed.

The lush green plant in photo 6 is a Mapacho plant.

. View attachment 61129View attachment 61130View attachment 61131View attachment 61132View attachment 61133View attachment 61134View attachment 61135

Broadleaf bed 2,


View attachment 61136View attachment 61137View attachment 61138View attachment 61139

Note for next year, when doing beds, plant on mounds, not basins. They work nicely now, but when the rain comes it can cause water build up and fungal pressure. I am going to see if I can figure out a gutter system. At that stage plants will be bigger and I can make a plan. Pretty silly oversight.

Tomorrow broadleaf field 1 will get an application of 8g LAN and 1g MAP per plant. Will be sprinkled in the basin about 10-15cm from the stem in the evening and then watered deeply, but without runoff. Measuring jug watered at 1.5 liters per plant 1 to 30 and then start at plant 1 again with another 1.5 liters. Marcros for this application is 35kg N/hectare and 3.5kg P/hectare. This is the last phosphate that this plant will receive.

Broadleaf field 2 is getting their first post transplant fertiliser application. Will get 2g of soluble 6:1:3 diluted into 2 liters of water per plant. 8kg N/hectare, 1.3kg P/hectare and 4kg K/hectare.

Just a tip I have done before as the plants gain some height you can still add a mound for runoff just compact it nice and firm around the stalk.

 

[StoneCarver]

Imo, with enough humus (organic material) in the soil, water pooling or runoff isn't a worry. The rain will percolate down through the soil just fine whether basin or mound.
The humus also helps keep the soil aerated which reduces the chances of pathogenic fungal infections or bacterial rot in the roots.

 

[johnny108]

Planting tobacco on a small hill was a standard practice in colonial America:

https://www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/events/farmer/how-to-grow-tobacco/

 

[StoneCarver]

I suspect that the making of small hills to plant on was a general Native American practice whether corn, beans, tobacco, or whatever.
It just came about from the way they cleared and prepared land to plant on. That's my thoughts.
And so the colonists learned it from the Native people.
It sure would be interesting to take a camera back in time.

 

[FantomBadger]

Just a tip I have done before as the plants gain some height you can still add a mound for runoff just compact it nice and firm around the stalk.

I will definitely look into that, I have about 2 months before the heavy rains start. At that stage I should have nice strong plants with enough stem and sacrificial leaf to make it work. I was planning an overcomplicated guitar system that isn’t necessary.

Plants looking healthy and strong.

Broadleaf 1,


Mixed bed,





Broadleaf 2,



I planted out all of them too soon, so that is something I’ll fix next year. So far it seems to be ok and the plants are doing well and growing quickly enough.

Nursery in the grow tent on 18/6 schedule at 350 PPFD light,



They seem a bit yellow, I will reduce the schedule to 16/8 perhaps and see if it is better. First want to check if I haven’t let them dry to much before watering.

I also started playing with label design for the eventual cigars when I was bored. I will post them once I’m done.

I might have access to an old rusty steel tank of about 1000 odd gallons that I think with some work can make a nice kiln and fermentation chamber. Just need to check its condition and then figure out how I am going to make it work and run it. I’ll definitely ask for advice here first.

 

[johnny108]

Are the seedlings leaves flattened down to the soil, or raised up?
If up: the light isn’t a problem, and the yellowing could be a nitrogen deficiency.
What are you using for a seedling mix?

 

[FantomBadger]

First disaster, only affected 8 plants and 5 should bounce back. My soil is not draining as well as I thought and too much water was applied when given ferts and then we had 3 days without sunshine.

So all in all, not too bad, a but disappointed though as of that 8 plants 3 were mapachos. Learning experience. I’m working sand into my soil next year. It seems most of our soil is clay leaning. Broadleafs are growing nicely.

Also the Olors are showing true leaves. Worked a charm once I decreased the light exposure and they are happy now.

Some photos of my root asphyxia, but of the 8 I think half might bounce back, most of them has or had new growth that doesn’t seem affected. I removed the leaves that are completely ruined and left some of the bigger leaves for photosynthesis.

 

[StoneCarver]

Working compost into your soil will also do a lot for increasing aeration around the roots. Something for next year's grow.

 

[FantomBadger]

Order for next year’s seeds placed.

Costello Tobacco Seeds
Cuban Corojo 99 Tobacco Seeds
Cuban Criollo 98 Tobacco Seeds
Cuban Habano 2000 Tobacco Seeds
Cuban Havana 142 Tobacco Seeds
Cuban Piloto Cubano Tobacco Seeds
Pennsylvania Red Tobacco Seeds
Turkish Basma Tobacco Seeds
Turkish Samsun Tobacco Seeds
Black Mammoth Tobacco Seeds
Nostrano del Brenta Tobacco Seeds

The idea is to create a library to test and make notes on flavours, combinations, burn rates, grow ease/difficulty etc.

Some very nice cigars to hopefully come out of this, with the Olor and Broadleafs I expect a massive variety that I can combine. Was looking for Perique, but alas. Next time. I should have enough seed and leave over the next few years to last me a very long time.

Then the waiting begins. I’ll smoke some of them fresher, but want to age them appropriately.

Of the 10 mixed plants I’ve lost due to asphyxiation I managed to replace them with 9 plants I had on the bench. So only really lost 1 plant and still have 3 strong Mapachos.

I love Broadleafs. So easy to grow compared to the other varietals I have.

I should receive my bios in the week. Plants were dried back a lot after the wet episode. Water deeply this afternoon.

 

[FantomBadger]

I have a question please.

Should I loosen the soil between rows and the basins a bit? Thinking of a rake between soil, about an inch and half deep and lightly loosening the soil in the basins, 2 inches from the plants, to about the same depth.

I’ll appreciate your advice.

I’m waiting a bit on the fertiliser, I’ll wait for a bit of yellowing before giving the final nitrogen application. Should be in the next 2 weeks then we’ll start with pot sulphate.

Some update photos.

 

[The Haroo ln]

I dont normally loosen the soil as such, i give the first dried blood (nitrogen) and fish,blood and bone (phosphorus) feed around 3 weeks after planting. Just 1 teaspoon of each per plant. Just scrape it gently into the top 2 cm of the soil around 10-15cm away from the stem to avoid root burn and water in a little. Then when the plants are about 5 weeks in i usually discard the bottom 2 leaves and pull up the soil around the stem. This helps the stem root a little more.

 

[TigerTom]

Who's promoting Havana 142 as a Cuban variety?

 

[StoneCarver]

You could loosen up the soil a bit. I would recommend using a spade fork for doing so. You'll get deeper into the soil with one. I'm afraid a hard rake won't really get deep enough.
This is a: Spade fork. Spade forks are also super handy for digging potatoes.
At the end of a growing season, I like to use a broad fork for turning/loosening the soil instead of using a tiller. This is also how I mix compost into the soil. I hate tillers and a broad fork requires no gasoline as it has no engine. This is a: Broad Fork
After forking the soil, then I use a hard rake to smooth out the surface.

 

[FantomBadger]

You could loosen up the soil a bit. I would recommend using a spade fork for doing so. You'll get deeper into the soil with one. I'm afraid a hard rake won't really get deep enough.
This is a: Spade fork
At the end of a growing season, I like to use a broad fork for turning/loosening the soil instead of using a tiller. This is also how I mix compost into the soil. I hate tillers and a broad fork requires no gasoline as it has no engine. This is a: Broad Fork
After forking the soil, then I use a hard rake to smooth out the surface.

We’ve done this. Should help with aeration and drainage.



Now just after we watered it looks like rain is coming. My luck has been terrible predicting the rain.

We used spade forks as well, smaller hand forks around the basins.

Now you’ve started something, never seem a broad fork before in my life. I need one.

 

[StoneCarver]

In the left margin of the picture, it looks like you do have a spade fork. Of course, using a mattock is another way but that can be back breaking work.
Ime, using a spade fork and broad fork to loosen up soil is the least labor intensive work. Its still a lot of hard work; no way around that.
What I'd recommend now is a layer of mulch on top of the soil at least around the plants- sorta like the icing on the cake. Then I'd say you ought to be good to go, given enough rain.
The mulch can reduce the mud splatter than gets on your leaves and also helps hold moisture in the soil.

 

[FantomBadger]

In the left margin of the picture, it looks like you do have a spade fork. Of course, using a mattock is another way but that can be back breaking work.
Ime, using a spade fork and broad fork to loosen up soil is the least labor intensive work. Its still a lot of hard work; no way around that.
What I'd recommend now is a layer of mulch on top of the soil at least around the plants- sorta like the icing on the cake. Then I'd say you ought to be good to go, given enough rain.
The mulch can reduce the mud splatter than gets on your leaves and also helps hold moisture in the soil.

Better photo. I do have and use a spade fork.

Broad forks are not that common around here.

I have an immense amount of dried grass clippings. I want to go through them properly first, or create a Bt biome in it before applying it over the beds.

 

[StoneCarver]

Broad forks aren't common anywhere. That's why I like to share my awareness of them. They are an excellent alternative to using a gas powered tiller.