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Greenmonster714's Grow Log 2017

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BarG

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Thank you JB. I'll do a search and try to find it.

Local feed store or where you buy fertilizer should have it, It helps make the soil more loamey and they recomend you allow allow several months but it helps sooner than that. Also great for removing hair from hides, heh heh or burying a dog to keep from being dug up by critters.

I always keep 10 lbs on hand. Last time I used it was for my neighbors german shephard.

And no it wasn't me that killed it.It was an accident but she was devastated, so we buryed it for her, and kept the critters from making off with the leg bones.
 

greenmonster714

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Okay so in the front yard my tobacco is showing signs of calcium def. I have limed both the front and backyard plots but the problem is mainly showing up in the front plot. After spreading the lime I find out that it can take months for the ph levels to adjust soooo on to another solution.

JitterBug commented and said that some cal mag would be a quicker solution since it is diluted into liquid. I found some on ebay and put it in the watch list.

As I was searching around and I came across this guys video. He is treating his calcium def tomatoes with TUMS. Tomatoes will get fruit/bud rot if they are low in calcium/mag. His solution to the problem is to use two TUMS tablets crushed and dissolved in water. He then uses the solution as a foliar spray to coat the leaves and then uses the rest to treat the roots. Within weeks his tomatoes no longer had the problem.

My thoughts are would this work well for tobacco????
 

BarG

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For a few plants or crop is my question. If your trying to save a plant don;t unless you are vested in it.
 

greenmonster714

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Lol...not so much in a rush. Would like to figure out what to do with the front yard plants. There's got to be something I can do.

I imagine if these plants go on to maturity they will yield much less. I'm just guessing here. Will they even make it to maturity?
 

BarG

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Just grow this year, learn and prepare for next year, you'l be fine. I am going on 1 year or 2 before I found fairtrade. I made my many mistakes, I did not have the professionals you have helping you, take their advice.You will be glad you did.
 

greenmonster714

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Just grow this year, learn and prepare for next year, you'l be fine.

Exactly what I'm doing here. This being my first go with tobacco. This site has been a ton of help. I learned a long time ago that if you want to be successful at something. Copy the people who have been there before you.

I will make mistakes and have made a few already. I just log them into my notebook and move on. I already see that some things will need changed by next year. I'm learning and so very thankful this site and these folks are here to help.
 

Jitterbugdude

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JitterBug commented and said that some cal mag would be a quicker solution since it is diluted into liquid.

Actually, I suggested Calcium Nitrate. It does work very well to prevent blossom end rot too.
The only issue with Calcium Nitrate is because it is water soluble a good heavy rain will wash it away, so apply when it is dry outside.
 

greenmonster714

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You are correct. My bad. Cal mag does have calcium nitrate and magnesium nitrate. I used to us it years ago with a hyrdo setup. I miss hyroponic growing. You can fix issues fast unlike soil.
 

greenmonster714

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I've been noticing these bugs on many of my leaves. Are they tobacco amphids? They brush off easily but they are some kind of bug????? Whats the best way to get rid of these critters?????

IMG_20170624_185043818.jpg
 

greenmonster714

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I wish I could get a closer shot of them. They don't seem to be like any other aphid I've seen before. I don't see any discoloration of the leaves they are on but it appears they are sucking on the plant and damage is bound to happen. I'm going to try to get a closer pic.
 

greenmonster714

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So, I went out tonight and snagged one of the bugs. I got this closeup and to me this appears to be a amphid. Not all plants have them but its just a matter of time. They've not caused damage yet but I'm sure they will.
IMG_20170624_233250352.jpg

Edit: I meant to say aphid. Dunno why I want to add that m all the time..lol.
 

greenmonster714

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Did some research. 1gal warm water, 4tsp of dish soap, and 4 pinches of cayenne pepper should do the trick. I'll attack them in the morning in a merciless genocide.
 

SmokesAhoy

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Oh god, you can't be so nice to aphids. It sounds like you are cooking a meal for them. Get something systemic. If your aphids are an eighth as tenacious as mine you'll end up smoking them this time next year.

I brought a plant inside last year at the conclusion of the grow and every day gently washed them off. Inside a house where all were washed down the drain almost daily and no new ones were flying in they still managed to repopulate repeatedly.
 

greenmonster714

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Systematic???? What do you mean? I've got them throughout the veggies and the tobacco. I gotta get rid of them somehow. From what I read the soap destroys their shell and they die. If there's more please let me know.
 

ProfessorPangloss

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Systematic???? What do you mean? I've got them throughout the veggies and the tobacco. I gotta get rid of them somehow. From what I read the soap destroys their shell and they die. If there's more please let me know.

Systemic, not systematic, although you could say one is as good as the other (so to speak). Systemic products are ones which are taken up by the whole plant and distributed from inside out. It's the difference between using some topical Neosporin and taking Amoxicillin. Many of us use a neonicotinoid like Nuprid (my go-to) or Admire or Macho applied as a soil drench when the plants are itty bitty. That is taken up by the plant and active for about 60 something days. It's vastly preferable to doing it the hard way. You *can* spray those products, but it's not advisable because they absolutely destroy pollinating bees in a devastating way (totally unacceptable if you're using them on insect-pollinated food crops) and the sheer volume you need is much greater when you do it that way. Try the soil drench and apply early in the morning. Hopefully the plants will respond by taking it up and killing the aphids for you.
 

greenmonster714

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Thank you for explaining that for me. I'll have to order some of that if the feed store in town doesn't have it. In the mean time I've spent this morning soaking them down with the soapy water. It'll just have to do until I can locate that product. I will definitely use it early next year on my seedlings.
 

deluxestogie

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Definitely aphids.

If you have a relatively small number of plants with aphids, then dish detergent in water (I use a few drop of Dawn in 4 ounces of water), if sprayed directly on the aphids, will cause them to desiccate in the sunshine. There is no residual effect, and aphids not directly sprayed will not be affected. Spraying is required every few days.

This year, I used an imidacloprid preparation mixed into my transplant water--at the time of transplant. When properly used, the imidacloprid maintains a low concentration in plant tissues for most of the growing period, and is nearly absent from the blossoms. I have no qualms about it, with regard to tobacco. I still see aphids and flea beetles, but they don't survive and multiply.

If aphids remain on your tobacco, the leaf will cure normally. After kilning, the dead aphids are still there. They can be easily brushed off the finished leaf with your fingertips, BUT it's a major pain in the butt. High concentrations of aphids on tobacco produce "honeydew," which is a sticky, sweet excretion. Honeydew on cured leaf increases the probability of mold, since it is an excellent growth medium for mold. It's still sticky after kilning.

In the past, I have found that the dish detergent approach works fairly well on varieties of tobacco that have wide spacing between the leaf nodes--allowing access to the spray. For shorter varieties with huge leaves, like Swarr-Hibshman, Dutch (Ohio), Long Red, etc., it's simply not possible to adequately spray them. After years of frustration with beautiful, finished leaf that was covered in tiny dead aphid bodies, I decided to give imidacloprid a try. But it really has to happen at transplant time.

At this point in the season, you can try a spray of permethrin, which will definitely kill the aphids, and has some residual effect. It is mostly gone after a week or two. Permethrin is relatively non toxic to humans (you can buy clothing pre-treated with permethrin), but should not be used near bee-pollinated blossoms, like veggies.

SUMMARY:
  • Dish soap solution works, but is labor intensive
  • My limit to using dish soap was about 150 plants
  • Dish soap can't reach the aphids on certain varieties
  • Imidacloprid should be applied at transplant to be effective
  • Topical, sparing use of permethrin will knock down the aphid burden
  • Aphids make me crazy
Bob

EDIT: Don't spray soapy water on a sunny day, since it may scald the leaf. Evening is the best time to spray.
 

greenmonster714

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Thanks Bob. Like I said above. I loaded the sprayer up this morning and took my time reaching under the leaves. It's odd how some plants don't have any but others are pretty populated. I sprayed everything veggies and all. I see what your saying about getting the suds where they need to go. Some of my leaf is getting rather large. I'd say most of the healthy ones are over knee high now.

I imagine the feed store has some of that pesticide. If I get it I'll not use it on the veggies. Don't wanna kill Mr bee.
 

deluxestogie

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Aphids begin by forming a few colonies on a small number of plants. If left unchecked, the colonies eventually start sending out their own colonies. This can lead to exponential growth. So long as the initial colonies are suppressed, then you may see little spread to unaffected plants. I should emphasize that you have to spray the soapy water directly on the aphids. If a leaf or entire plant is aphid free, then it's just a waste of perfectly good dishwater--and your labor, since aphids don't care about soapy water on the leaf.

You're getting the full initiation program. I'm sure you'll feel older by the end of the year.

Bob
 
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