Jamorros swedish indoor grow 2025

[deluxestogie]

sub-forum for indoor growing

A simpler approach would be to include "Indoor Grow" in the title of the grow log, if the grow is entirely indoors. Many growers are growing "indoors" for parts of their season, and on indoor window sills for part of their grow.

Bob

 

[jamorro]

6 days after topping atleast one lower leaf has started showing signs of yellowing. Just a matter of time now. Still reducing nitrogen and increasing potassium and kalium in the dose they get each day.

The plants do not seem to be shooting up as quickly anymore which is good news for me



It would be nice to start priming them soon though as they are shading the lower plants quite a bit. The reflectors you can see are housing 25w uvb 100 (5% uvb rainforrest mimicking) bulbs for reptiles. Im running those 30minutes a day atm and im increasing it every other day or so by 15 minutes until i reach 1-2 hours. The reflectors are 3d printed and then tinfoil was glued into them.




I did try a foliar spray to combat the yellow mottling on the top leaves on one of the plants which seem to have led to some strange rings on top of the leaves i sprayed. Some of it rubs away and some of it seems sunken into the leaf im guessing some type of burn happened. Will have to be more careful about that in the future.



As for color curing and harvesting i will have to figure out some type of other place for it as i was planning on hanging em in the top part of the tent. That is obviously not happening anymore as the plants grow higher than i expected.

 

[jamorro]

o lawd i was wrong. They are convinced that the closer they get to the lights the better. Time to bring out the string

 

[StoneCarver]

That really is amazing.

 

[jamorro]

i do have one problem and that i keeping down the humidity in the tent. Altough im starting to wonder if the sensor is drifting might place another in there to verify.

 

[jamorro]

Yep the sensor was drifting hard around 20% which is why i couldnt get the rh down at all no matter what i tried.

 

[jamorro]

Started priming a few leaves that were getting yellow. Mostly smaller bottom leaves but also one or two bigger ones that were hindering airflow and had started yellowing. Hung a few up in a closet but they dried green. Had the humidifier running but it never for up to over 70% RH and the airflow from the fan might have been a bit strong. I decided to go for pile curing in a cardboard box with the rest of em. They have been in there for a day or so and are yellowing nicely. Theres one leaf im a bit worried for as its looking a bit bad.




Otherwise the tent is doing fine. Only one of the plant (one of the criollos) seem to want to really reach for the sky which is nice. It also has a bit bigger leaves than the one in the background. UV exposure is now up to 1 hour and 15 minutes and i cannot see any real leaf damage or scorching so it seems to be doing fine.



I have started to compile a more compact guide/evaluation for my grow. But im most likely waiting a bit to post it until ive gotten a bit further into the grow to see how the plants mature.

 

[jamorro]

Curing seems to be progressing nicely. Not sure if they will continue progressing as they are still pliable and not crispy.
Humidity seems to be howering around 72-73% and temps are at around 26-27c. Might push the humidity up a bit more.
Had a few spots of white mold on a 2 of of the box curing leaves so now im looking at em twice a day and im gonna hang em earlier. The green leaves are just there to dry up a bit before going in the box as i had to wash some dirt off em.



a few have greenish spots (top right) Not sure if they will continue progressing as they are still pliable and not crispy. We will see i guess.


The tent is doing fine. I am currently picking the leaves as they are going a bit brown at the tips. Good thing is that the criollo has stopped reaching for the sky. An interesting point is that its top leaves are much smaller than the criollo which stopped reaching earlier (the one back right). Both i topped and tried only to get the bud.

 

[jamorro]

Things are slowly progressing. I have been using box curing with papers between each leaf. I think ive figured out a few details as to why im having issues with a some leaves and not others. I think ive left a few in too high of a humidity for too long so some sort of rot set in. A few of the leaves seem to hold out the browning while hanging much better than the ones who started to get dark brown spots before i hung em up. This is the same leaf (front and back) around 14 hours a part, I took the picture after taking it out of the cardboard box this morning. The room is kept at around 77-82% RH and temps are steady at 26-27c. I pushed the RH up a bit to see if i can just hang cure em from the start or after just a day or 2 in the cardboard box.





Other leaves are progressing quite normally while the ones that started showing spots really deteriorated quickly. It feels like im missing something but im not entirely sure what. The box was sitting in the same room maybe it would have done better if it was at a slightly lower temp while boxed.

 

[jamorro]

aaand another 8-10 hours later they are very brown. Vs another pair of leaves i took out of the box at the same time

 

[jamorro]

or well maybe i should have written green brown. I have done a bit more reading and concluded that ive probably been feeding them a bit too heavily for proper leaf yellowing on the plants so ill cut back especially on the nitrogen. I imagine that will help with color curing as well. So i fed them only water today and will feed em a reduced strength and reduced nitrogen feed tomorrow or the day after.

In other news the connecticut shade and the small stalk black mammoth is growing well and has started really pushing some height now.

 

[StoneCarver]

You might be onto something in regards to fertilizing. IIrc, I believe I've read that stopping fertilizing prior to flowering/harvesting is recommended. I can't tell you any details though since I'm figuring it all out too.

 

[jamorro]

You might be onto something in regards to fertilizing. IIrc, I believe I've read that stopping fertilizing prior to flowering/harvesting is recommended. I can't tell you any details though since I'm figuring it all out too.

I wonder if its too drastic to stop it fully in coir as it doesnt hold nutrients in the same way as sool or peat does. I will reduce my feeding heavily atleast and see how that works

 

[deluxestogie]

The biological process of tobacco leaf ripening is one of senescence. In commercial tobacco growing (in soil, in the sun), fertilizer is usually applied once, prior to transplanting to the ground, and sometimes reapplied at half-strength after a heavy rainfall during the first 2 weeks after transplant. The logic in not fertilizing during the last 4 to 8 weeks prior to harvest is to encourage leaf senescence. Translating that guidance to container growing in non-soil media, and in artificial light, becomes a trial and error experiment.

This differs from food gardening for leafy greens, where you aim to harvest edible leaf at its most robust biological state.

Bob

 

[jamorro]

The biological process of tobacco leaf ripening is one of senescence. In commercial tobacco growing (in soil, in the sun), fertilizer is usually applied once, prior to transplanting to the ground, and sometimes reapplied at half-strength after a heavy rainfall during the first 2 weeks after transplant. The logic in not fertilizing during the last 4 to 8 weeks prior to harvest is to encourage leaf senescence. Translating that guidance to container growing in non-soil media, and in artificial light, becomes a trial and error experiment.

This differs from food gardening for leafy greens, where you aim to harvest edible leaf at its most robust biological state.

Bob

Aye and it seems like very few have done that research as of yet, at least for tobacco. I was just going on with what i do with peppers etc as ofc those want flowering boosters etc in soil-less media.
The logic for reducing especially nitrogen and general nutrient availability to trigger ripening/end of season behavior should stay more or less the same with plants in soil-less media (i think) so reducing the feed should work in the same way. I guess the question then becomes how much to reduce and how much to each element to feed as coco coir generally seems to hold less nutrients and act more like a hydroponic media.

The leaves have been going yellow albeit at maybe a slower pace than they might have done had i restricted the feeding earlier. It will be interesting to see if there are any major differences for the 2 plants currently growing and the next patch i just planted.

Had i been smart and grown all my plants at the same time i would have cut down on the light period as well but as i still have growing plants im probably not gonna do that as of now.

 

[StoneCarver]

I don't think light period will matter much. I grew my tobacco outdoors last year and it was all pretty much full grown and flowering before summer solstice.
And remember where tobacco evolved, kinda sorta within the tropics where photoperiod doesn't change much throughout the year.

 

[deluxestogie]

I don't think light period will matter much.

A number of varieties of Nicotiana tabacum are quite sensitive to light period (actually the length of the dark period per 24 hours). When the dark period is shortened, they simply keep on growing taller and taller, which can dramatically delay their blossoming as well as leaf maturation. I have witnessed this effect in garden-grown tobacco that was exposed to my neighbors' insecurity lights.

Some of these photoperiod sensitive varieties are well documented (e.g. certain burley varieties), but I also saw that photoperiod effect with Olor and Colombian Garcia, producing plants that reached 11 feet tall, with extremely late blossom development.

Bob

 

[StoneCarver]

Bob, that's a rather curious response to shortened photoperiod. I'm sure Jamorro was thinking in terms of triggering a switch from vegetative to flowering stages of growth. But what you indicate is something different entirely from the sounds of it and it also sounds like shortening the photoperiod doesn't necessarily trigger a switch from vegetative growth to flowering. I'm wondering if the tobacco is presenting a form of etiolation in response to shortened photoperiod- which explains what I noticed from my plants.

I planted my tobacco on the eastern side of my house. I noticed the plants nearest my house grew a little taller than the ones just a few feet further away. So, the ones nearest the house had a shorter photoperiod because the shadow of the house reached them sooner. Now I'm wondering if they were etiolating in order to reach up and get a longer photoperiod or something like that. Watering, soil, and fertilizer were the same for all the plants; the only different variable was the time the house's shadow reached them.

 

[johnny108]

Bob, that's a rather curious response to shortened photoperiod. I'm sure Jamorro was thinking in terms of triggering a switch from vegetative to flowering stages of growth. But what you indicate is something different entirely from the sounds of it and it also sounds like shortening the photoperiod doesn't necessarily trigger a switch from vegetative growth to flowering. I'm wondering if the tobacco is presenting a form of etiolation in response to shortened photoperiod- which explains what I noticed from my plants.

I planted my tobacco on the eastern side of my house. I noticed the plants nearest my house grew a little taller than the ones just a few feet further away. So, the ones nearest the house had a shorter photoperiod because the shadow of the house reached them sooner. Now I'm wondering if they were etiolating in order to reach up and get a longer photoperiod or something like that. Watering, soil, and fertilizer were the same for all the plants; the only different variable was the time the house's shadow reached them.

Did the plants that get less light have smaller leaves?
I notice that, along with longer internode length, is a tell when plants aren’t getting enough light. Usually happens in my windowsill plants grown in winter.

If the leaves were the same size, it is possible that the plants close to the house received enough reflected light, but possibly grew taller due to the warmth from the house prevented cool weather slow downs in growth.
I get better results with morning sun against a brick garage wall, as the plants get warmer, earlier in the day, and stay warmer, longer than plants that are shaded in the morning and get afternoon sun.