Pasi's Grow Log 2026

Pasiasiainen

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Maybe all hope is not lost after all. One of my Piloto Cubano seco leaves accidentally snapped off a week and a half ago, and I tossed it into my curing tent as a test, assuming it wouldn't cure properly, as I couldn't see any signs of maturity in it, or in any of the other leaves, probably because of my overfertilizing issues.

To my surprise, it has started curing to a really rich, deep brown. If it continues like this all the way to the end, and the rest of the leaves cure this nicely too, I may have avoided a disaster after all.

Happy happy!


Piloto1weekCuring.jpg
 

Pasiasiainen

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I'd appreciate some thoughts on kilning.

My kiln is outdoors, and here in Finland the temperature can easily drop to -10 C (14 F) or even lower in December, when I'll still have tobacco in the kiln.

Because the outside temperature gets so low, I can't really avoid condensation if I humidify the whole kiln. My kiln isn't completely airtight, and there are some small thermal bridges anyway: screws, a window with little insulation, cable pass-throughs, etc.

Last year I kilned some Burley in watertight glass jars with 72% Bovedas inside, without humidifying the kiln itself at all. Once a week I opened the jars, lightly moistened the leaves and moved them around a bit. The leaves were folded inside the jars, and naturally they suffered a little from all the handling. They were going to become pipe tobacco anyway, so it didn't really matter. Results were good.

This year I'm trying to kiln cigar tobacco. I'd like to keep the leaves whole, straight and undamaged, while still avoiding humidifying the air inside the kiln.

Has anyone here tried something like this: putting whole leaves inside a vacuum bag - not vacuumed, not heat-sealed, but with the open end closed as tightly as possible - and then maintaining the humidity only inside the bag?

This would also save a lot of space compared to glass jars, since I could simply stack the bags on top of each other in the kiln. At the same time, I could put the different leaf types from each variety into their own bags right from the start, and then store them in the same bags afterwards.

Does this sound like a reasonable idea, or is this a road to disaster?

Another approach would be to frog-leg the leaves first, moisten them, fold them once lengthwise, then roll a stack of leaves into a bundle and put it in a glass jar. Long-term storage would then be a separate step.
 

The Haroo ln

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I would recommend dropping your RH to the mid 60s. That will usually help a little with condensation. The other thing i would suggest is to move the kiln inside to a warmer area maybe near a radiator so your heat source is not cycling on too much and creating extra humidity (if using a crockpot. Third suggestion would be to heavily insulate the outer walls of the kiln.
 

deluxestogie

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Has anyone here tried something like this: putting whole leaves inside a vacuum bag - not vacuumed, not heat-sealed, but with the open end closed as tightly as possible - and then maintaining the humidity only inside the bag?
I have successfully kilned whole leaf in large bags that were closed simply with clothespins on the folded opening. The leaves were pre-moistened, and never needed additional moisture over the 8 weeks of kilning.

Bob
 

Pasiasiainen

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Thanks, @deluxestogie ! Great to hear that this technique works.

By the way, what kind of case were the leaves in when you put them in the bags? Medium, high?

And did you open the bags from time to time, or does the ammonia escape well enough through the opening without doing that?
 
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