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problems with fermentation

Red Lime

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The humidity in the bags will definitely be very high. When I put the leaves in, they weren't soaking wet, but they were pretty wet, so I don't have a way to measure right now, but the humidity will be close to 100 percent.
 

Red Lime

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I have now decided to open the zip-lock strip on the bags so that some gas exchange can take place! I hope that was a good decision. Then the temperature in all areas will be a little more balanced. What do you all mean?
 

Red Lime

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My tobacco has been fermenting for exactly 2 months now. Today I did a court test. I am actually satisfied with the aroma that comes towards me. However, I did notice a slightly irritating smell of ammonia. Now the question arises, continue to ferment until this ammonia smell is gone or not? I have to say it's not much. But ammonia means that protein compounds are still being breathed out here and they should be gone! What do you recommend me?
 

LeftyRighty

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Hello everyone,

I need your help, but first let me summarize what has happened so far. My tobacco has been hanging in the air to dry since September. The humidity was too dry during the color change, so many leaves remained green or have green spots. All the leaves are bone dry at the moment and will break just by touching them. I started fermenting 2 weeks ago. I soaked the leaves in distilled water and this made them
Am I missing something here ???
The tobacco leaves never cured properly, dried 'GREEN', NO AMOUNT OF PROCESSING OR FERMENTATION WILL CHANGE THIS.
these leaves are TRASH..

This is a good discussion on proper operation of a fermentation kiln, though.
Terrific - now, grow a new crop, properly CURE the leaves, and finish with your new fermention kiln !
 

deluxestogie

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After your 2 months of kilning, bring the leaf to low case, and allow it to rest in sealed bags for a month. Then recheck it. Although you can never undo initial curing errors, resting time often mellows out harshness. The first year of tobacco is always a steep learning curve.

Bob

EDIT:
these leaves are TRASH..
But that is exactly what comes in those big bags of cheap "pipe" tobacco—sweepings and trash.
 

Alpine

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Kilning does wonders to tobacco. Most of times.
BUT! I had a burley crop, kilned for more than two months (side note: i kiln all my baccy for 3 or 4 weeks, and it’s usually good enough to smoke, even rusticas) that right out of the kiln was… well, from “barely smokable” to “meh” at best. I put it aside in a shoebox in the attic and forgot about it for a couple of years. Once “rediscovered” it was simply delicious. Let your kilned tobacco rest for a couple of weeks, stored in a breathable container at medium-low case (avoid mold!) and then try it again. I’m almost sure the taste will improve.

pier
 

Red Lime

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Thank you for your feedback! The entire leaves are certainly not garbage. Two thirds are very well cured from green to yellow to brown. About a third did not manage the color change so well, there are some green spots with it. It's difficult for me to always precisely control the humidity. I'm assuming the leaves that haven't hardened as well are causing the ammonia smell. I'll sort them out.
 

Knucklehead

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Thank you for your feedback! The entire leaves are certainly not garbage. Two thirds are very well cured from green to yellow to brown. About a third did not manage the color change so well, there are some green spots with it. It's difficult for me to always precisely control the humidity. I'm assuming the leaves that haven't hardened as well are causing the ammonia smell. I'll sort them out.
The ammonia smell is normal. It will go away once aired out and rested for a few days after kilning.
 

burge

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Ammonia is the smell of aging. Fermentation happens when the leaves are put under heat but mostly pressure. You do not need heat to ferment leaves.
 

burge

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Not "cooking", and not pressure. The cigar "University" people need to spend some time studying physical chemistry and biochemistry.

Bob
Well just putting it out there and that is how it is done. The chemical reaction to the leaves is a fascinating subject. These principles help in the aging process of tobacco.
 

deluxestogie

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deluxestogie

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the insulating property of a pilon
Correct. If you calculate the pressure (pounds per square inch) at the bottom of a pilon, it is negligible. Further, the greatest warmth is trapped within the center (horizontal and vertical) of the pilon, which is where the fermentation is most pronounced. A pilon is the equivalent of a pre-industrial kiln, but requiring hundreds of times more labor.

Bob
 

Red Lime

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I'm really upset, I made a fucking mistake. My tobacco has now been erroneously in the fermenter for a week at 140-144 Fahrenheit. Now I'm concerned that the oxidase has been destroyed and can no longer contribute to the tobacco maturing. What do you think?
 
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