It looks like a carpenter ant.
Bob
Bob
Robncars Growing in ND
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carpenter ant
wingless wasp
I can’t seem to get the one from the other page as a larger side by side.
Pretty sure you have me beat based on range.
wingless wasp
I can’t seem to get the one from the other page as a larger side by side.
Pretty sure you have me beat based on range.
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ChinaVoodoo
Moderator
I'm going with carpenter ant as well.
Camponotus pennsyvanicus, or
C. quercicola, or
C. laevigatus, or
C. nearcticus
The antennae and mandibles are clearly belonging to an ant in my opinion.
These are the ants of North Dakota:
www.antweb.org
Camponotus pennsyvanicus, or
C. quercicola, or
C. laevigatus, or
C. nearcticus
The antennae and mandibles are clearly belonging to an ant in my opinion.
These are the ants of North Dakota:
Antweb
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Robncars
Well-Known Member
Well if its carpenter ants it appears to be hard to be rid of
Robncars
Well-Known Member
I guess it's not that hard. But they can be difficult.
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
Hi all.I'm going with carpenter ant as well.
Camponotus pennsyvanicus, or
C. quercicola, or
C. laevigatus, or
C. nearcticus
The antennae and mandibles are clearly belonging to an ant in my opinion.
These are the ants of North Dakota:
Antweb
If it is a carpenter ant, and it looks like one to me, but we don't seem to have those either. In post No:63 I see said ants feeding on the larvae of something. If this is a good bug baby that's bad, kill them. If it's a bad, leaf chewing baby that's all good, breed them.
Pleased to see you have the other bug's under control, enjoy your learning curve this year, it's the steepest one
Oldfella
Could eating ants help us live longer?
Crunchy and curvy, these ample-bottomed queen ants are as prized in Colombia as caviar. But to find them, you’ll have to make it past thousands of soldier ants.
www.bbc.com
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
Hi, Check out my grow blog 2020, I put one our grubs there to save confusion on this one.Could eating ants help us live longer?
Crunchy and curvy, these ample-bottomed queen ants are as prized in Colombia as caviar. But to find them, you’ll have to make it past thousands of soldier ants.
Cheer's Oldfella
Robncars
Well-Known Member
They seem to like everything. But aphids are high on the list. Aphids are leaf chewers.
I'm certainly getting an education. And this year has to produce or the wife already wants to quit. I dont know about women or quitters but it isnt hard enough if you ace it your first try. I appreciate everybody's help with this project
Aphids have no chewing mouth parts. They find a nice location on a leaf, pierce the surface with their mouth apparatus, then remain in that location, sucking on plant juices. If you gently hose them off the leaf, they don't seem able to climb back up.
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
My biggest plant yet. That's a quarter on it.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
When does tobacco start to produce nicotine that would deter most bugs from chewing on it?
Nicotine is produced in the roots, and transported up to the leaves. If you clip the leaves several times (typically at weekly intervals) while they are still indoor seedlings, it stimulates root growth, so leaf nicotine begins to rise earlier. At transplant time, there is still not enough nicotine production by the roots to deter most bugs, though it seems to be enough to make the leaf somewhat unpalatable to mammal herbivores. Once the roots take a good hold in the ground (starting maybe two to three weeks after transplant), root nicotine production begins to ramp up. By about one month after transplant, the bottom leaves are already moving into senescence, so they never quite get a robust dose of nicotine.
"Deter insects" is really only applicable to insects that are not adapted to consuming nicotine. So typical tobacco insect pests (e.g. flea beetles, aphids, thrips) remain undaunted by leaf nicotine, though female aphid adults (winged) seem to lay their eggs preferentially on leaf with the lowest nicotine--new leaves, sucker leaves, auricles of mature leaves.
Bob
"Deter insects" is really only applicable to insects that are not adapted to consuming nicotine. So typical tobacco insect pests (e.g. flea beetles, aphids, thrips) remain undaunted by leaf nicotine, though female aphid adults (winged) seem to lay their eggs preferentially on leaf with the lowest nicotine--new leaves, sucker leaves, auricles of mature leaves.
Bob
My worst pests were aphids and hornworms. They consider nicotine as a condiment.
I use this in the transplant water for aphids. It works for pretty much the whole season.
Imidacloprid: Bayer Fruit Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control for APHIDS
Imidacloprid: Bayer Fruit Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control Imidacloprid is a systemic insecticide that can be added to water at transplant, to provide control of aphids (and some other insects) for most of the growing season. A common problem is that the most readily available...
Bt spray....how much?
I give up! I wanted to control hornworms by hand if possible but this has gotten out of control. I have BT......have mixing instructions........but how much needs to be sprayed to be effective? light mist? Saturate every leaf? I just picked 6 babies from one plant. Time to deal death a different...
Robncars
Well-Known Member
I'm under the impression that as I am in North Dakota and it isnt a tobacco state that most nicotine prone insects dont typically live here. Even if they do they wouldn't be very tolerant as I dont know of anyone else attempting to grow it. Even local greenhouses were surprised at my attempt. With that thought I look more at tomato family insects. As I understand tomato potato and tobacco are all nightshade family. And so are prone to insects and diseases from each other.
Correct.
What defines "tobacco growing states" is based on agricultural practices from the 18th century. Seeding was done in outdoor beds, so the seeding had to wait until after last frost. That clipped 2 months out of the growing season. But tobacco is grown commercially in Nepal, and grows well anywhere with a 90 day growing season. Most pests of solanaceous plants (including tobacco, some veggies and a bunch of weeds) can host them, and can serve as reservoirs for transmission (often by insects) to other members of Solanaceae.
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Ok so an update I got a water can that you can set liquid plant food at tbsp up. I would fill the quart container with water and 1 tbsp of orchid fertilizer. I have it set to 4 tbsp per gal and I'm seeing a lot of improvement. I'm starting to see the center stem in a few of my big ones and the others are growing better.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Next year I think I have a plan to get my grow in the ground a lot quicker. I'm going to cut the bottom off of 1gal milk jugs. I'll start the plants in starter trays and move them to milk jug bottoms in 2-3 weeks. Then transplant in early may. I'll use the top of the milk jugs to cover them so they can grow without frost danger. And get use to sunlight.
I could sure use some input.
This is my biggest plant. I got about 6 weeks left of frost free.
I could sure use some input.
This is my biggest plant. I got about 6 weeks left of frost free.
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
Looking good. I don't know about frost we've never really had one. When I was a kid liveing down south we did, but I can't remember what we done. I'm thinking here, keep an eye on the weather, ( Now I remember some anyway), and get some frost cover it's like a sort net. A bit like shade cloth only white. From memory you can just leave it on. Your garden shop should be able to help.
Oldfella
You may not be able to get seed, but 6 more weeks of growth, and that will be a mature plant. The first part of the season always seems to be the slowest growth. But it's really just the tiny starting size that deceives us. As soon as transplant shock is over (~2 weeks), it's all exponential increase in leaf mass.
Bob
Bob
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