Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Ha, I can see how it would remind someone of that.
Tobaccofieldsforever 2023 Grow Log
- Thread starter Tobaccofieldsforever
- Start date
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Harrow velvet is a pretty plant !
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
I’m waiting for the hornworms to strike. It has been quiet. Maybe they won’t come this year…
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
The classic question: when to top? In the past, I have waited until anywhere from 10 to 50% of plants have at least one open blossom but watching YouTube videos got me thinking. Is there any harm in topping a plant as soon as you see it producing buds (days to weeks before any blossoms may open)? My thought was commercial farmers wait this long to top (until at least 10% of plants have an open blossom) because there is a better chance all plants will have buds to top at this point, reducing the possibility of having to go through and too again. If I top as soon as I see any buds will I be sacrificing anything? I was thinking it would be beneficial because all the energy the plant would have put into this flowers/buds will go to leaf maturation but I know there are different chemicals at play during this stage of development…any ideas?
Edit: I have heard a lower leaf count being a result of early topping. Is this due to the fact that many immature leaves can be removed with the bud head? What if I reach in between all those immature leaves and literally only remove the bud head and no surround ding leaves, will those “tips” grow to full size like they may have if the bud head was left longer?
Edit: I have heard a lower leaf count being a result of early topping. Is this due to the fact that many immature leaves can be removed with the bud head? What if I reach in between all those immature leaves and literally only remove the bud head and no surround ding leaves, will those “tips” grow to full size like they may have if the bud head was left longer?
Last edited:
I think another reason to top at the same time is so the plants mature at the same rate and can be harvested at the same time (or close to it). During periods of low humidity, it helps curing to have a whole string of leaf together, sharing the moisture, to help prevent drying green, rather than 3-4 leaves at a time. Also, your assembly line is spread out all over the place at various stages of development.
As an extreme example, the photo below is my bagged plant for seed that was not topped at all. The leaves in the center of the photo are barely showing maturity while those around them from topped plants are getting pretty ripe, and many of them have already been harvested.
As soon as a plant is topped, it will begin to aggressively sucker. If you wait until 50% of the plants have at least one blossom open:
My bottom line: I find early topping makes the work more tedious.
Bob
- you'll spend less of the season suckering
- find it easier to remove suckers, since the distance between leaf nodes will be greater (due to stalk lengthening)
- find it much easier to decide at what level to top
Your leaf count will be at the level you top. [You get to count.] When the leaves are all scrunched together, I find it difficult to count them from the bottom. Once a bud stalk has lengthened, then I decide on the level at which to top, based on the visual position down from the crowsfoot.
My bottom line: I find early topping makes the work more tedious.
Bob
One justification for keeping taller varieties short (early topping) is if your area is prone to frequent bouts of high winds. The extra work of early topping doesn't compare to the messy labor to re-standing blowdowns.
Bob
Bob
MadFarmer
Well-Known Member
I topped the Piloto early to try and remedy calcium deficiency.
My Jasmine tobacco is showing a button, but I won't top that one.
My Jasmine tobacco is showing a button, but I won't top that one.
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
It’s that time of year again…yet to spot a single sign of hornworms.
The tobacco looks wonderful!
Bob
Bob
The plants exploded upwards! My compliments to the gardener. That's some nice hoe work.
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Thank you both!
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Oh good, another severe thunderstorm with high winds. I wonder how many plants I will be resetting this time (about 10ish last time)
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Reset at least 50 plants. Lost 1 completely (uprooted) and my Costello bud bag was snapped clean off! I have topped most of that variety other than a couple “runts” that were too far behind. I’m not crazy about saving seed from plants with such characteristics but I guess I have no choice now. Is there any problem with letting a sucker grow out on my intended bag plant and bagging that? This is new territory for me…never lost a bud bag before.
Ideally, you collect seed from seed pods that have browned on the plant. If the snapped-off bud bag has fully formed seed pods, then you may get sufficient seed (lower germination rate) for your needs, just by hanging it indoors to complete drying, and saving lots of seeds. Allowing a new sucker to produce seed will work, if you have enough time before first frost.
The uprooted plant may be suitable for stalk-curing as is.
Bob
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
And the severe thunderstorms just keep coming. At least they are happening toward the end of the grow season and most damaged/killed plants can be entirely harvested with good results.
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Update: the plants are fine. I know you guys were worried so I snapped a quick photo between storms to soothe your anxieties…
Bottenslam
Well-Known Member
Really nice pic, very atmospheric with the storm clouds
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
So my very first attempt at flue curing in what I use as a kiln was not great. It was not a complete failure though either. I am currently 1 day into my next batch and I put a cheap hygrometer in the chamber so I can see exactly what is going on when I make adjustments. It has been a big help so far. 
African red, 1st attempt. My kiln reached 160 without issue but my timing was off with the phases…try, try again
African red, 1st attempt. My kiln reached 160 without issue but my timing was off with the phases…try, try again
Tobaccofieldsforever
Well-Known Member
Day 2 of yellowing my 2nd batch and i have the temp and RH right around where I want them. I know it is not necessary to monitor the RH so closely (or should I say, many choose not to and still have excellent results) but I decided to eliminate any and all variables that may be throwing a wrench into the cogs. Also, a relatively accurate hygrometer with probe ran me around $6 so no big deal. 
