There are two more stalks of Prancak N-1 still growing, and not yet matured.
After a leaf count, I've determined that I have two more primings of Corojo 99, and three more primings of Piloto Cubano PR. I have hanging room in the shed for about 5 more primings. Those, along with the two stalks of Prancak N-1, are all that's left to harvest, except for the one potted Havana 322.
Now, I really need to begin lifting the tobacco roots with the pick ax. All the scrubby suckers that are emerging can harbor many insect pests, and cause more issues in those beds next year.
Hornworm Report
I reviewed my hornworm notes for this season.
- wave 1: 6/17/2017
- wave 2: 7/19/2017
- wave 3: 8/23/2017
So they have suddenly appeared three times, starting in mid June, and recurring at about 4-1/2 week intervals. If I allow any suckers to continue growing, then I have no doubt that I would see a fourth wave at the end of September.
I believe that I found only 1 hornworm one inch long or larger, all season. The rest, and there were easily 100, were quite tiny when they met their untimely deaths. To that, I'll add a wild guess of at least 100 squished hornworm eggs over the season. It seems that the effort to manually manage hornworms was probably less than the effort that would be required to spray the upper and lower surfaces of every leaf 5 or 6 times during the summer. The inspections would happen regardless. The cost of squishing is zero.
The greatest exertion in my hornworm approach was at the time of the first wave, when the plants were mostly waist-high or shorter. This required prodigious counts of stooping, squatting and standing. As the plants grew taller, inspections were noticeably easier.
Aphids Report
Until about two weeks ago, I experienced ZERO aphids. I attribute this to the use of imidacloprid in the transplant water for each seedling. One indication that the imidacloprid had effectively vanished from the entire plant by mid August is that the one plant to subsequently develop aphid colonies beneath its leaves (a Besuki-Ambulu) did so from the very lowest to the highest leaves--simultaneously. For this single plant, which was bagged for seed, I sprayed the affected leaf bases with permethrin a week prior to stalk-cutting it, then thoroughly hosed it and dried the water from it overnight on the clothesline, before taking it to the shed. (I removed its bagged head before cutting the plant stalk.)
I found a scant few aphids on maybe 3 other leaves total. These were managed by simply rubbing the aphids into oblivion with a fingertip.
Chemicals Report
- imidacloprid (Bayer Fruit Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control): applied only at the time of transplant. The amount used was calculated from 16 plants/60 ft[sup]2[/sup] bed, and followed the label recommendations per square foot for most vegetables. No aphids, few flea beetles, and less vigorous baby hornworms were the result. I will use this again next season.
- permethrin spray: used on each blossom head once, at the time of bagging. Used on the leaves of one plant (see Aphids, above). No budworms appeard inside the bagged heads. This is well worth the effort.
- low chlorine 10:10:10 (Southern States Vegetable Grower): applied at the label recommendation for tomatoes and peppers (23 pounds per 1000 ft[sup]2[/sup]) only once, shortly before transplant. I am quite satisfied with the tobacco growth.
- iron phosphate in bran (generic Sluggo): sprinkled onto two troublesome beds about 1 week prior to transplant. In the bed alongside the house foundation, I had no slug damage at all. In the other bed (Prancak N-1), I saw a lot of damage, but I cannot attribute it to slugs. The damage vanished after covering the transplants with Agribon AG-15 floating row cover.
Bob