In regards to burn quality, perhaps I’m getting confused with chlorine.
My CRS disease acts up sometimes. (Can’t Remember Stuff)
Robncars Growing in ND
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In regards to burn quality, perhaps I’m getting confused with chlorine.
My CRS disease acts up sometimes. (Can’t Remember Stuff)
Yes, I was confused. Chlorine affects burn quality.
Posts from Deluxestogie in regards to chlorine.
fairtradetobacco.com
fairtradetobacco.com
Posts from Deluxestogie in regards to chlorine.
Radagast Grow blog attempt 2020
Looks like it was a victim of BBDP (big black dog pee). As an owner of a lovable black lab, I am well versed in this phenomenon, to the detriment of my landscaping.
Radagast Grow blog attempt 2020
Looks like it was a victim of BBDP (big black dog pee). As an owner of a lovable black lab, I am well versed in this phenomenon, to the detriment of my landscaping.
I know in rice too much nitrogen is bad. It causes lodging (plants get too heavy and blow over) and increases the chances of having insects and disease problems. No idea what too much does in baccy, but I'm sure there is a happy medium somewhere. It probably wouldn't be too bad to start easing off the closer you get to harvest. I would think with the lower concentration you are using now it wouldn't be too strong to countinue using for a few more weeks - just going with my gut not any documented protocols so I could be wrong.
Reading the first few links knucklehead sent it sounded like they were cautioning against muriate (Cl) of potash (K) = (KCl), which goes along with what knucklehead said about chlorine and smokeability.
I'm sure you've heard before, but just to say it in case it helps anyone else - if you have a fireplace or fire pit save those ashes and leavings for mixing into your soil early next year - they are like gold. They make a good source of Potassium (K) and trace elements and help raise the the Ph of the soil. The early tobacco farmers were all for the slash and burn method for starting a new tobacco field.
Reading the first few links knucklehead sent it sounded like they were cautioning against muriate (Cl) of potash (K) = (KCl), which goes along with what knucklehead said about chlorine and smokeability.
I'm sure you've heard before, but just to say it in case it helps anyone else - if you have a fireplace or fire pit save those ashes and leavings for mixing into your soil early next year - they are like gold. They make a good source of Potassium (K) and trace elements and help raise the the Ph of the soil. The early tobacco farmers were all for the slash and burn method for starting a new tobacco field.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
My big one here is 32"
I hope its the 3' tall variety....
On another note I've seen 90 days from transplant and 120 days from transplant. I'm hoping for 90 days...
I hope its the 3' tall variety....
On another note I've seen 90 days from transplant and 120 days from transplant. I'm hoping for 90 days...
Whatever variety is pictured, it is clearly still growing, and the lower leaf is beginning to mature.
Bob
Bob
Robncars
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I believe it is a burley.
The 90 days may be referring to the time of harvesting if topped and the 120 days may be referring to seed set. 120 days sounds like a long time for most tobacco varieties. Don't know if you already checked, but If it is a variety sold by northhwoods seeds they may have days to maturity shown in the detailed description of the variety.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
No its from a different vendor but I didn't save the variety.
Most of the "days to maturity" data reported by ARS-GRIN is nonsense (with some rare exceptions).
Bob
Bob
Just glancing through northwoods varieties it looks like the longest burley is about 80 days to maturity with a lot of the others in 60-65 day range. My guess is you'll probably be ok.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
So I found 2 that are just starting to show the flower nub. Do I clip that right away or let it grow a little?
That is a good question for @deluxestogie. I'm interested to hear the response as well since your plants are still small but your growing season is getting limited. Bob has some pretty good insights and might pass on some more good late season growing tips as well
Oldfella
Well-Known Member
Yeah me too. Very interested, not sure how I would deal with this oneThat is a good question for @deluxestogie. I'm interested to hear the response as well since your plants are still small but your growing season is getting limited. Bob has some pretty good insights and might pass on some more good late season growing tips as well
Oldfella
Let it show a couple flowers and then top it. It will continue growing and getting taller and the leaves will continue to grow and get heavier.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Thanks I will do that.
Robncars
Well-Known Member
So here is my flower nub
And onion sets
And corn
And peas
Which look really good in light of it being so hot and dry this year
And onion sets
And corn
And peas
Which look really good in light of it being so hot and dry this year
The bud on the tobacco still has weeks to go. Nice looking veggies. I'm curious how you will extract the onions through those tiny holes.
Bob
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
I was planning on cutting the greens off and slipping the pvc off. No other way I can see. And I've never seen onions stored with the greens on
I don't know the recommended timing for harvesting onions for storage. What I usually do for storage onions is wait for the tops to die completely, then pull or dig the mature onion bulbs. I guess I was thinking more of how you might harvest the still-green onions for fresh use, since after a certain point, the bulb is a larger diameter than the stalk of greens.
Bob
Bob
Robncars
Well-Known Member
Well I guess I have to confess I cant eat onions but one of my kids wanted some so I planted them. So if I do it wrong I'm not really out anything lol
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